Wapping Food, London

Saturday 23 October 2004 00:00 BST
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Housed in a converted hydraulic power station, which powered curtains in West End theatres before the1970s, this huge restaurant with an art gallery sports a modish industrial urban look: pumps, hoists and engines; industrial machinery; bare brick walls; multimedia installations; and art exhibitions.

Housed in a converted hydraulic power station, which powered curtains in West End theatres before the1970s, this huge restaurant with an art gallery sports a modish industrial urban look: pumps, hoists and engines; industrial machinery; bare brick walls; multimedia installations; and art exhibitions. Displaying artwork in restaurants is a trend that's likely to stay. The concept could also evolve in the future to encompass other forms of art, too. But, there really is nothing quite like this venue in London. As you would expect from a cutting edge concept restaurant , it showcases some of the trendiest ingredients of the moment: preserved lemons are paired with chickpeas in a soup; piquillo pepper is combined with grilled red snapper; organic lamb comes with beet leaves and Agen prunes; smoked ricotta is added to orecchiette with roasted artichokes, middlewhite pork partners chorizo and mussels; and there is a fig and blackcurrant panna cotta for after your meal. Add to this morels, Spanish caperberries, and golden beetroot, and you have a menu hip enough to whip any fashionista into raptures.

Wapping Food, Wapping Hydraulic Power Station, Wapping Wall, London 020 7680 2080, Mon-Fri 12-3pm, 7-11pm, Sat 10-1pm, 1-3.30pm, 7-11pm, Sun 10-1pm, 1-4pm. Meal for two, excl wine: £60

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