Bites: From urban to rustic

More city chefs who've headed for the country

Caroline Stacey
Saturday 29 June 2002 00:00 BST
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Crooked Billet, Westbrook End, Newton Longville, Buckinghamshire (01908 373936)

Award-winning sommelier John Gilchrist and his partner Emma Sexton, who cheffed for lunching ladies, left Mayfair for Buckinghamshire. Together they run an exemplary village pub – no airs and graces, just good beers, home-grown vegetables, terrific British cheeses, an extraordinary wine list (350 by the glass from £2.50 to £50) and vigorously good food. Asparagus soup with Cornish crab and chive brandade, or fillet steak with colcannon jacket potato, pea purée and deep-fried sage are typically gratifying. Main courses from £9 to £17, desserts £4.50.

The George, The Green, Cavendish, Suffolk (01787 280248)

Jonathan Nicholson's going it alone after a decade with Conran, latterly as head chef of Bluebird. His revamped ancient village pub restaurant with rooms should open next week. He's made the kitchen open to view and will produce bread, his own black pudding and robust but unfussy dishes. Main courses cost no more than £15 and are served in clean-lined dining areas, with Adnams, local guest ales and organic cider to keep drinkers happy.

Trouble House Inn, Cirencester Road, Tetbury, Gloucestershire (01666 502206)

Chef Michael Bedford and his wife Sarah went from City Rhodes to a 17th-century Gloucestershire roadhouse. They've restored the hostelry – but without squeezing out the locals. Bedford cooks unpretentiously delicious dishes like roast lamb and summer veg, or lemon sole with clams, new potatoes and leeks – but leaves room to drink Wadworths. Around £25-£30 to eat without wine.

Walnut Tree Inn, Llandewi Skirrid, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire (01873 852797)

Stephen Terry left London's chic restaurants behind and seems to have taken to country life like a duck to confit. If anything he's upped the cooking a notch or two, but still remains true to the spirit of his predecessor Franco Taruschio in marrying Welsh ingredients to rich and rustic Italian recipes. Stunningly good food for around £30 without drinks.

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