Bites: Brighton belles
Caroline Stacey rounds up more of Brighton's culinary attractions
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Gingerman
On the borders of Hove, this small, unstuffy but well-run restaurant has a reputation as one of the best in town. Intelligently robust rather than especially spicy is the nature of the cooking. The chef's a redhead, hence the name. The heartening line-up at lunchtime (£12.95 for two courses, £14.95 for three) or dinner (£21 for two, £23 for three) might include bruscetta of stuffed baby squid; rabbit with black pudding, raisins and Cognac sauce; or haddock with saffron potatoes, cockles and bacon. Passion fruit soufflé with coconut ice-cream and treacle pudding represent the tempting directions the desserts might take.
21A Norfolk Square, Brighton (01273 326688).
Moshi Moshi
Just back from the seafront, but a long way from trad fish 'n' chips. Moshi Moshi was one of the first of the conveyor belt sushi set-ups in London and this, in a cool, purpose-built cabin in a pedestrianised square, is its only outpost. Just the thing for a daytripping pit-stop, the sushi that snakes past on the moving counter is good quality. If you don't want to treat it as a pick-up joint and help yourself to passing plates, sushi and sashimi sets and donburi boxes (from £5.50 for salmon teriyaki with soup or salad) can be brought to you. Or they'll make up temaki rolls to order. All for around £10.
Bartholomew Square, Brighton (01273 719195).
Saucy
Ooer, missus, this young, home-grown British bistro is enthusiastically run, has a staunch following and a typically Brighton vibe, though it's actually on the hip side of Hove. By British they mean everything from bangers and mash to risotto, warm beef salad with bok choi and plum sauce to Moroccan casserole. The lunch deal is £10, dinner's upwards of £20. It's a bit groovy, good for vegetarians as well as meat-eaters, and has a children's menu. A good all-rounder with an up-to-date website to match.
8 Church Road, Hove (01273 324080), www.saucyrestaurant.com.
Terre à Terre
There are a few carnivores it may not convince, but this award-winning vegetarian restaurant is probably the best place to eat meat-free in the country. The edible attractions are endless, and the menu suits those who want to know exactly what they're getting: "Twice baked, crammed full of Jerusalem artichoke and parmesan, on smashed buttery baby potatoes ... surrounded by elephant garlic and ... splashed with rocket oil" -- otherwise known as a Jerusalem artichoke soufflé. Such a labour of love is £11.60; a full meal around £20 without drinks. Lunch can be snackier.
71 East Street, Brighton (01273 729051).
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