Bites

Women chefs are few and far between in Paris, but their restaurants come highly recommended

L'Assiette

One of the best-known, Lulu Rousseau believes it's what's on the assiette and not the décor that matters. Her attractive, bare-boards-and-tables former butcher's shop is accordingly down-home and meaty, though the prices are notably uncosy. Around 70 euros a head doesn't quite match the bistro credo. Foie gras, confit de canard and boudin des Landes are typical of her gratifying south-western canon.

181 Rue du Chateau, 14th (00 33 1 43 22 64 86)

Chez Gudulle

Funky restaurant du quartier (clock the table on the ceiling) where young chef Marjorie Souchet treats her regulars like friends. She makes sure ennui never sets in by changing the contemporary French menu every day. Prices, by Parisian standards (and those of better-known women chefs) are very decent: 20-30 euros a head.

58 Bd de Picpus, 12th (00 33 1 43 40 08 28)

Flora

Flora Mikula opened her own place less than a year ago. Previously she ran the Provençal Les Olivades in the 7th. In her own moody neo-art nouveau joint she's getting a name for herself cooking luxurious French Mediterranean – butter sole with truffle purée or suckling pig with honey and spices, for example. Not too filling to put off such luminaries of the beau monde as Eva Herzegova and Carla Bruni, though. From 32 euros for lunch to 70-plus for dinner.

36 Ave George V, 8th (00 33 1 40 70 10 49)

Thiou

There's more of a tradition of Thai women chefs than there is of French ones, and chef/patronne Apiradee Thia Rakomen's spicy cooking and lively restaurant has a starry following. High decibel popularity suits vintage Parisian celebs – Catherine Deneuve and Johnny Halliday are regulars. Tigre qui pleure, marinated beef with raw papaya and carrot salad, brings tears to the eyes.

49 Quai d'Orsay, 7th (00 33 1 40 62 96 50)

Additional research by Svenja O'Donnell