Smoked haddock chowder

Serves 4

1kg/2lb undyed smoked haddock
1 litre/13/4 pints whole milk
6 peppercorns
25g/1oz butter
2 rashers smoked streaky bacon
1 leek, washed and trimmed
3 carrots, peeled and diced
3 celery stalks, chopped
2 sprigs of thyme
3 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped
2 fresh bay leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
100ml/31/2 fl oz double cream
The grated zest of an unwaxed lemon
A small handful of curly parsley, very finely chopped
2tbsp toasted breadcrumbs

Check the fish for any small pin bones and remove carefully. Pour the milk into a wide- based saucepan and add the peppercorns; place over a medium heat and bring to just under a simmer. Add the smoked haddock and remove from the heat. Set aside until the haddock is cooled. The heat of the milk will be enough to poach the fish.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in another saucepan over a gentle heat. When it is melted, add the bacon and cook for two to three minutes or until they are lightly browned.

Add the leek, carrots, celery, potatoes, thyme and bay leaves and season with sea salt and ground black pepper. Cook over a low heat for 10 minutes or so until the vegetables begin to soften.

Drain the haddock, reserving the poaching liquid. Once the fish is cool, remove from the skin and flake the flesh, keeping it in large chunks. Add to the softened vegetables, then strain slightly and cook until the potatoes and carrots are tender. It is important that the milk doesn't boil.

Stir in the cream and warm through, then discard the herbs and check the seasoning. To serve, ladle the chowder into warm soup plates and scatter over the lemon zest, toasted breadcrumbs and finely chopped parsley.