How to make Romy Gill's baingan bhartha

The food we hate during childhood often becomes our best-loved dish in later years. Romy Gill reminisces on a family favourite that she lovingly serves at her restaurant today

Roasting aubergines on a gas burner is the trick to Gill's Baingan Bartha recipe, using this technique promises a dish rich in flavour (Ros Atkinson)

There was a time in my teenager years that I gave my mum a very hard time by constantly complaining about all the food she cooked for us. But she would just carry on, without getting upset about it. Looking back, I think both my parents had more patience than me.

But I started respecting the food she made, and the food I grew up with, when I moved to the UK and craved the food I had once complained so much about.

That taught me that food is a lifeline for everyone. For me, it was a connection to home.

Every household in India will have their own way of making this dish, but the essence of it is to roast aubergines over a gas burner, which firstly makes the skins easier to remove, but it also imparts a smokiness into the flesh of the vegetables.

The finished dish looks a little like mash and boasts an intense flavour. Although this is explained on the menu at my restaurant, some people still expect to receive a whole aubergine on their plate and not this kind of Indian regional food.

So, I’ll keep on trying to change perceptions and show that not all Indian restaurants will serves kormas and baltis!

Baingan bhartha

Serves 3-4

3 large aubergines
4 tsp extra virgin rapeseed oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
5 garlic cloves, chopped
2 red onions, finely chopped
3 tomatoes, chopped
4 green chillies, finely chopped
5 tsp fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped
1 tsp coriander powder
1.5 tsp turmeric powder
2 tsp ground coriander 
1tsp salt 

Roast the aubergines on a gas burner over a high heat, turning regularly for even roasting. When roasted/charred, set aside to cool. Once cooled, peel the skins from the roasted aubergines, then mash.

Heat the oil in a non-stick pan, once the oil is hot add the cumin seeds, when it starts sizzling immediately add the chopped garlic and stir for a minute.

Add the chopped onions and cook, stirring, for 5-6minutes on a high heat. Keep stirring.

Add the chopped tomatoes, green chillies and fresh chopped coriander and cook for further 3-4 minutes. Add the rest of the spices and the salt. Mix well.

Add the mashed aubergine, and cook for 5 minutes over a medium heat stirring occasionally.

Romy Gill’s restaurant is in Thornbury (Romyskitchen.co.uk). Follow her on instagram @romygill