Mark Hix recipes: Croque monsieurs with quince cheese; Salmon with ponzu; Scampi provençale; Duck brochettes; Deep-fried avocado
If cocktail sticks at parties prompt thoughts of sweaty cheese and pineapple, think again
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After reaching a peak in the Abigail's Party, cheese-and-pineapple era of the 1970s, serving party food on cocktail sticks rather fell out of fashion. I think sticks are back in a big way though. And why not? They're a fun, convenient and hygienic way for large numbers of guests to share delicacies. You can be endlessly creative in what you combine on them, and with anything from simple wooden sticks to fancy silver or colourful novelty ones, you can be as flamboyant as you like.
Croque monsieurs with quince cheese
Serves 10-15
You can use pre-sliced bread for this as it's all about the filling really. I've added a little extra something here – quince cheese, which adds a sophisticated sweetness to the snack.
6 thin slices of bread
Softened butter for spreading
9-10 slices of emmenthal
6-9 slices of good quality ham
3 medium eggs, beaten
50-60g fresh white breadcrumbs
50-60 g quince cheese (membrillo)
Vegetable or corn oil for deep frying
Spread the slices of bread with butter on one side, then sandwich the cheese and ham between them with the buttered side inward. Press firmly then cut off the crusts. Cut into approximate 2cm squares and refrigerate for an hour or so. Have two containers and a tray or plate ready, one with beaten egg and one with the breadcrumbs. Put the > chilled squares carefully through the egg and then the breadcrumbs, keeping the mini-sandwiches intact.
Preheat about 8cm of oil to 160-180C in a large thick-bottomed saucepan or electric deep-fat fryer. Deep-fry the croque monsieurs for a minute or so until golden, turning them with a slotted spoon as they are cooking, then drain on some kitchen paper. Put the end of a teaspoon of the quince cheese on to each sandwich and then push in the cocktail sticks and serve immediately.
Salmon with ponzu
Serves 10-15
It's crucial to get ultra-fresh salmon for this, and the rest is easy. This recipe will also work with white fish such as cod or pollock. You can find ponzu, a Japanese condiment, in Asian supermarkets and increasingly in regular ones too. If not, use light soy sauce mixed with lime juice.
For the dressing
100ml ponzu
1 red chilli, trimmed and finely chopped
2 spring onions, finely chopped
A small piece of root ginger (approx 30g) scraped and finely chopped
1tbsp chopped coriander stalks
300-400 fresh salmon fillet, skinned Mix all of the ingredients together for the dressing. Cut the salmon into 1-1½cm cubes and put them on to cocktail sticks. Put the dressing into a bowl in the centre of a serving dish and arrange the salmon around.
Scampi provencale
Serves 10-15
A snacky take on a classic. If you can't find raw or frozen scampi tails, you could use prawns or even chunks of a firm-fleshed fish such as monkfish or scallops.
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
2tbsp olive oil
1tsp tomato purée
A splash of white wine (about 50ml)
6 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped, or a can of chopped tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1tbsp chopped parsley
20 or so peeled, large raw scampi tails
First make the sauce: gently cook the shallots and garlic in the olive oil for a couple of minutes on a low heat without colouring. Stir in the tomato purée and white wine, then simmer for a minute. Add the tomatoes, season and simmer for 5-6 minutes until they begin to break up and the sauce is thick and intense in flavour, then stir in the parsley.
Meanwhile season the scampi, heat a tablespoon or so of olive oil in a frying pan or a ribbed griddle and cook on a high heat for a couple minutes until lightly coloured, turning as they are cooking. Put the sticks into the scampi, with a little blob of sauce on top of each, and serve immediately, with the remaining sauce in a dish on the side for dipping.
Duck brochettes with pomegranate molasses
Serves 10-15
You can buy tiny duck breast mini-fillets from some branches of Waitrose, otherwise get duck breasts, remove the skin and cut the meat into strips. Pomegranate molasses can be found in many supermarkets and delis. If you have a festive pomegranate lying around, scattering some of the seeds on to the brochettes adds a bit of crunch.
20 duck mini-fillets or 4 duck breasts
20 short bamboo skewers, soaked in cold water overnight
Approx 150-200ml pomegranate molasses
The seeds from half a pomegranate (optional)
A little vegetable or corn oil for brushing
Thread the skewers through the length of the duck fillets and give them a twist. Put the skewered fillets into a couple of mugs or similar tall containers, then pour in the pomegranate molasses. Leave overnight to marinate.
To serve, preheat a ribbed griddle pan and lightly brush with oil, then remove the skewers from the marinade, brush off any excess and griddle briefly for a couple minutes, brushing with a little marinade as they are cooking. Serve with some pomegranate seeds scattered over.
Deep-fried avocado with harissa mayonnaise
Serves 10-15
Yes, deep-fried avocado. Not only does it taste sublime, but if you have underripe avocados and just can't wait to eat them, then this is your dish.
Flour for dusting
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg, beaten
50-60g fresh white or panko breadcrumbs
2 slightly under-ripe avocados, peeled, stoned and cut into rough 1-2cm chunks
Harissa to taste
2-3tbsp good quality mayonnaise
2tbsp freshly grated parmesan
Vegetable or corn oil for deep frying
Have three containers ready, one with the flour, well seasoned, one with the egg, and the third with the breadcrumbs. Coat the pieces of avocado in the flour, shaking off any excess, then pass through the egg and finally through the breadcrumbs.
Mix enough harissa with the mayonnaise to suit yours or your guests' taste, and transfer to a small serving bowl.
Preheat about 8cm of oil to 160-180C in a large thick-bottomed saucepan or electric deep-fat fryer. Deep-fry the avocado until golden, a couple of handfuls at a time. Drain on some kitchen paper. Skewer the avocado with a cocktail stick, and transfer to a serving dish with the harissa. Serve immediately.
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