How to make Kay Plunkett-Hogge's drunkard’s noodles

So called, because it’s alleged to be an excellent hangover cure, better even than a bacon sandwich. Most often, you’ll find this served with beef, but it is equally delicious with pork or chicken, depending on what you have around

Pad kee mao – drunkard’s noodles

Serves 2

115 g/4 oz sen yai (large) rice noodles
1 heaped tsp nam prik pao (roasted chilli paste)
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
2 tbsp nam pla (fish sauce)
1 tsp tamarind paste (puree)
1 tsp chilli powder
a pinch of sugar
2–3 Thai bird’s eye chillies
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2 coriander (cilantro) roots
a pinch of salt
2 tbsp vegetable oil
125 g/41⁄2 oz beef, pork or chicken, cut into thin strips
1 tomato, cut into 8 wedges
4 kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced
a large handful of Thai basil leaves, plus extra to garnish

In a large bowl, soak the noodles in hot water until they separate and reach the texture of uncooked fresh pasta.

In a small bowl, mix together the nam prik pao, dark soy, nam pla, tamarind paste, chilli powder and sugar, until the sugar has dissolved.

Pound the chillies, garlic and coriander root together with the salt in a pestle and mortar until you have a rough paste.

Heat your wok over a high heat until it’s very hot, then add the oil. Add the garlic and coriander root paste, and stir-fry for a minute or so until it’s really fragrant, then add the meat. Stir-fry until it takes colour, then add the tomato, lime leaves and the chilli paste mixture, stirring them in well.

Now add the drained noodles and half of the basil. Keep stir-frying until everything is cooked through and well combined, about 5 minutes. Stir through the remaining basil and serve immediately, garnished with the extra basil leaves.

Tips: Nam prik pao (roasted chilli paste)

This is not a curry paste or chilli jam – it’s a whole different beast. Most people buy it at the Thai supermarket. The Mae Pranom brand is one of my favourites, but they’re all pretty good.

Coriander (cilantro) root, leaves, seeds and stems: Thais use all parts of the coriander plant. Keep the seeds in the spice rack, the roots in the freezer (you’ll generally find them in the freezer section of your Asian supermarket), and buy the leaves as you need them. They perish fast. Try to keep a fair bit of stem on the roots. If you cannot find coriander root – and there will be weeks on end when there doesn’t seem to be any about – use the stems instead. It’s not quite the same, but it’ll do. If you become a super-keen Thai cook, buy it in bulk when you see it, and freeze it.

'Baan: Recipes and stories from my Thai home' by Kay Plunkett-Hogge, published by Pavilion Books. Recipe images credit to Louise Hagger