Your support helps us to tell the story
From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.
At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.
The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.
Your support makes all the difference.I first came across this seasonal meal about 15 years ago in a farmhouse restaurant, up a windy hill close to Rosas, north of Barcelona where the now-famous restaurant El Bulli is. First we were dressed in bibs, then sections of curved gutter-like tiles arrived, filled with burnt, leek-like onions, along with pots of romesco sauce. Specialist greengrocers such as Tony Booth in Borough Market, and Philip Britten at Solstice (see Food Notes, page 45), have calcots. The vegetable has a laborious upbringing lasting more than a year.
The seeds are planted in September, and the seedlings transplanted in January, and allowed to grow until late June or early July. Then they're uprooted and stored until they've sprouted, which they do in August or September. They're then trimmed and replanted, with earth covering the stalks to keep them white. They're harvested again at this time of year, and eaten with gusto as calcotada, cooked as below. I have cooked calcots at home, and have also used those giant spring onions, which work pretty well. In Spain the onions are cooked over a charcoal barbecue for 8-10 minutes until the skins are black, but you can use a regular grill.
24-30 calcots, or large spring onions, washed
for the romesco sauce
125ml olive oil
2tbsp flaked almonds
1 red pepper, halved, seeded and roughly chopped
A good pinch of sweet pimenton
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
2 ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded and roughly chopped
1tbsp red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a heavy pan and cook the sauce ingredients on a medium heat for 3-4 minutes with a lid on, stirring every so often. Drain off most of the oil into a jug and coarsely blend the solids in a food processor, trickling the oil back in a little at a time. Remove and leave to cool.
For the onions, heat a grill, barbecue or charcoal grill and cook for about 5-6 minutes on each side, or until they are black. It's best to eat them just after they're cooked, wearing a bib or napkin. Remove the black skin with your fingers, and dip the soft white onion into the sauce. Oh, and have some finger bowls ready.
Join our commenting forum
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
Comments