Brunch on Saturday: Dine with your head in the clouds and make French inspired eggs
This week in Brunch on Saturday, we enjoy stunning views of London at the Darwin Brasserie in the Walkie Talkie building and draw inspiration from across the Channel for French baked eggs at home
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Located high above the capital on the 36th floor of the Walkie Talkie building in London, the Darwin Brasserie is not the place to head if you are looking for a low-key or particularly unusual brunch. And at £44.50 per person, it’s not cheap.
But what the restaurant does offer is stunning views of London and a definite sense of occasion. Although queuing for the security gate at the entrance gives the place the feel of an airport, don’t be put off.
You’ll forget all about that after whizzing over 100m upwards in the elevator that opens out to reveal the cityscape and the building’s lush green public Sky Garden. Perched above that garden is the brasserie.
Perhaps the food isn’t the most imaginative, but the food is only half the reason why you might head here. The menu features twists on brunch staples, like a New York breakfast with steak, mushrooms, fried egg and tomato, and old favourites like the full English breakfast with dry-cured bacon and Cumberland sausages. Twists, like the intense truffle on the cheese omelette, make dishes feel “a-bit-posh” and fit for a birthday or anniversary brunch or to mark a day trip to the city. And you can be sure that the attentive waiting staff will ensure your glasses of prosecco are always kept topped up and that you are satisfied.
Unlike many brunch spots, the dessert menu is as varied and delicious as the mains, and the truly rich freakshake – topped with a flamboyant pink donut – doesn't disappoint.
The Sky Garden, 1 Sky Garden Walk, London EC3M 8AF; 020 7337 2344; skygarden.london
Brunching in...
Baked eggs with Bayonne ham & parsley cream
Serves 4
Simple, bold ingredients are the secret of this dish, and the flavours you could add are endless: try mushrooms, salmon, chicken – or ham, as here.
40g butter, softened
4-8 slices Bayonne ham
8 eggs
2tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
100ml double cream
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Crusty French bread, to serve
Preheat the oven to 150C/300F/gas mark 2. Generously butter four individual ovenproof dishes or ramekins and place on a baking tray. Divide the ham slices between the dishes, laying them over the base and up the sides.
Crack two eggs into each dish and then top with some of the parsley and the cream.
Season with salt and pepper and bake for 12-15 minutes until the eggs are just set. Scatter over a little more parsley and serve warm, with crusty French bread.
James Martin’s French Adventure by James Martin (Quadrille, £20) Photography © Peter Cassidy
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