Restaurant review: Le Roi Fou, Edinburgh

Winner of the best new restaurant gong at the Scottish Food Awards, chef Jerome Henry’s joint is an intimate hit in New Town

Thumbs up: chef Jerome Henry’s award-winning restaurant is a tad pricey but its food packs a punch and it’s perfectly atmospheric (OH! Taste)

It was by pure chance that our maiden trip to the newly launched Le Roi Fou fell on my birthday – and it was a welcome treat. Already familiar with the location, once my husband’s favourite burger joint, this little restaurant is tucked just off the bustling Broughton Street in the heart of Edinburgh's New Town.

Le Roi Fou opened in April and is the brainchild of chef Jerome Henry and his creative director Isolde Nash. Its name translates as “the crazy king” French and it’s no surprise it was crowned best new restaurant at the Scottish Food Awards in May. (Henry’s worked at Anton Mosimann’s Private Dining Club and Les Trois Garçons in London’s Belgravia and Shoreditch respectively.)

This cosy self-proclaimed “bijou restaurant for bon vivants” proves a welcome surprise. The intimate bar and “salon” accommodates roughly 30 diners – both areas offer a different vibe but merge seamlessly. A high wooden, tiled bar in the lighter front part of the restaurant offers seating for six. The friendly sommelier assists with the small but perfectly formed wine list. The main dining space at the back of the restaurant is a combination of classic and contemporary with light wood, red velvet seating dark grey-green chalk painted walls – white tablecloths, fine china and crystal. This certainly feels one step up from other restaurants in the area. That said, the atmosphere is relaxed and informal and there's no need to don the blazers and heels – unless you want to, of course.

After a warm welcome, we are seated at a corner table. Husband and I normally argue over who has their back to the crowd when we go out so this is a good start. The service is efficient and subtle and table layout seems to encourage a buzz of conversation rather than the stifled whispering you sometimes experience in a smaller restaurant.

We kick off with a glass of Pouilly Fumé, a Spanish red, and some delicious appetisers, along with homemade focaccia with rosemary-infused olive oil and a pastiche accompanied by a fresh artichoke puree.

Selecting from the attractive a la carte menu, I turn herbivore and opt for the salad of spring vegetables and baked aubergine with pickled walnuts (£7.50). This is a beautifully fresh dish with vibrant flavours and colours to match that leaves me almost wishing I’d ordered the bigger portion. To go with the Spanish wine, husband opts for cured Iberico pork loin and warm white English asparagus – he enjoyed it but it was quite punchy at £12.50 and I think having had a forkful of mine, there was some food envy going on.

Spring garden vegetables salad with aubergine and pickled walnut (OH! Taste)

When it came to the mains, we choose the grilled Cotswold chicken supreme with a lemon and herb sauce (£18.50), the dry-aged beef fillet with garden vegetables and borderlaise sauce (£29.50), and a side of pommes frites (£4). We both enjoy our dishes, but in husband’s words, they are “good but not knockout”. The appetisers and starters set the bar high.

The puddings come to the rescue, though. We choose the valrhona chocolate marquise and poached rhubarb and pistachio crumble (both at £7.50). The marquise is as promised: super chocolate-y and delivered with a superb combination of flavour and texture – gooey ganache, soft warm brownie, crumbly chocolate soil and vanilla ice cream. The crumble has the right amount of bite, a sweet pistachio topping and a smooth creme fraiche ice cream.

Le Roi Fou certainly warrants a return visit. The higher pricing reflects the quality, but there are also very reasonable offerings for pre-theatre, weekend lunch and Sunday brunch too.

Three courses for two people people comes to around £90

Food ****
Ambience ****
Service *****

1 Forth St, Edinburgh EH1 3JX; 0131 557 9346; open daily except Mondays and Tuesdays