Brunch on Saturday: Jikoni review and a couscous pancakes recipes

This week on brunch on Saturday, Megan Townsend tries out nostalgic Indian-inspired comfort food in London’s Marylebone and makes couscous pancakes at home

The mix of modern and traditional ingredients form dishes from all over the world to create a story

Brunching out...

The petal pink exterior of Jikoni stands out in contrast to its grey, muted neighbours in London’s Marylebone. The printed flowery curtains, an ostentatious display of potted plants and wicker chairs visible from its exterior bring back an instant wave of nostalgia that is hard to identify on first approach.

Indeed, Ravinder Bhogal’s decoration of her restaurant feels deeply personal; doilies and flowery china are laid on top of African chitenge print table cloths. The seating arrangements are informal, retro wooden dining chairs and more cushions than you can shake a stick at cover couches and sofas.

I spend about 10 minutes after entering trying to put my finger on what this all reminds me of... and then I saw an odd pineapple print hanging on the wall and it hit me. This is like my nanna’s dining room, covered in artefacts from a life well lived and pretty things picked up along the way, with no set background, no aim, location or design.

The smell of shepherd’s pie mixed with incense coming from the kitchen is tangible, and suddenly I’m six again, poking holes in net curtains while watching her fuss over the family canary.

The mix of influence has a clear source for Bhogal, a Kenyan-born Indian-British chef couldn’t possibly have settled for a theme like her neighbours – there is no eggs benedict on this brunch menu.

There’s no eggs benedict on this brunch menu

We begin with small plates – the prawn toast scotch egg (£7.50) combines a crunchy bready exterior with a soft prawn filling to create a complex and delightful mingle of texture. The kimchi parathas (£9.50) are soft and tangy, and will make you wonder if you can ever eat the two separately again.

For mains, I couldn’t resist the scrag end pie (£18.50), a reinvention of a shepherd’s pie, which retains all the heartiness but adds cardamom and spices for a bit of a kick – if your grandma’s hug was in food form this would be it. The mutton keema sloppy joe (£12.50), an Indian spin on the American cosy classic, comes complete with devilish deep-fried padron peppers.

For a sweeter option, the pina colada pancakes (£11.50) are hard to beat; featuring coconut ice cream and caramelised pineapple. For cultural-fusion, the salty-syrupy banana cake (£8) with miso butterscotch and ovaltine kulfi hits the spot.

My dedication to dry January lasted for one drink in Jikoni, firstly opting for the sweet alcohol-free matunda fizz (£7), with passion fruit, cranberry juice and ginger ale. Alas it wasn’t meant to be and not wanting to break my 27-day stint without it really being worth it I ordered the honey and quince bellini (£11), a wintery take on breakfast booze.

From the décor to the menu, the exciting mix of modern and traditional ingredients and dishes from all over the world create a story – an exact character that embodies the Jikoni experience.

The restaurant feels like it’s dedicated to women – the matriarchs who invite you over to eat and know exactly what you fancy without having to say a word.

Jikoni, 19 – 21 Blandford Street, London W1U 3DG, jikonilondon.com, 020 7034 1988

Brunching in...

Couscous pancakes

150g tenderstem broccoli
50g raw couscous
80g crumbled feta
1 clove finely chopped garlic
3 sprigs finely chopped mint
3 sprigs finely chopped parsley
2 pinches dried chilli flakes
3 eggs, whisked
2tbsp plain yoghurt to serve (optional)

Blanch the tenderstem in boiling salted water until bright green, drain and leave to cool. Once cooled blend in a food processor until finely chopped. Measure the couscous into a bowl and cover with 60ml of boiling water, which should just cover the granules. Cover with cling film for five minutes until completely absorbed. Once cooked run a fork through the couscous to fluff it up.

Add the chopped tenderstem, feta, garlic, mint, parsley, chilli, eggs, salt and pepper to the couscous and mix thoroughly. Heat a non-stick frying pan on a medium heat with some olive oil and spoon one-and-a-half tablespoons of the mix into the pan.

Fry until golden brown on both sides. Serve with a sprinkle of feta and a couple of pieces of steamed tenderstem on top, or add a dollop of yoghurt.

For more recipes, visit tenderstem.co.uk