International Women’s Day: Women have made strides in brewing – but drinking beer? Not so much

Ahead of IWD 2019, Jo Turner reflects on diversity and intersectionality in the beer industry and the stereotypes that are – still – holding female consumers back

Despite growing visibility in the trade beer is yet to fully be won back for women (iStock)

As with many male-dominated spheres, there’s been a slow but steady change occurring within the beer and cider industry. It’s a shift that feels like it’s been gathering speed, spearheaded by women from all aspects of the brewing scene who have no time for old stereotypes.

There really should be nothing remarkable about women drinking, making, promoting and selling beer.

Yet at Craft Beer Rising – a popular and influential public beer festival in east London – last weekend, besides the 155 breweries which pitched up to showcase their offerings, one couldn’t help but notice the disproportionate amount of beards and whiteness.

The lack of diversity among attendees who’d come to sample the goods was stark.

But at the event, there was a panel hosted by some of the industry’s most prominent women who addressed the progress that’s been made by women in beer, and the work that still needs to be done.

Just 17 per cent of women drink beer once a week compared to 50 per cent of men; and for only 9 per cent of women it’s our most-drunk alcoholic beverage

Women’s visibility in the brewing business, for example, has increased greatly, but the presence of LGBT+ folk and people of colour is sorely wanting. Stateside, this problem is being addressed by the Brewers Association (BA), which recently hired a diversity officer; there were calls for the UK’s Society of Independent Brewers (Siba) to make a similar move. “Now is the moment,” said Gabe Barry, Brooklyn Brewery’s education manager for Europe, “to flesh out the power vacuum” in the trade.

But among important inward-looking points – on everything from childcare to training and opportunities – Jaega Wise, head brewer at Walthamstow brewery Wild Card who sat on the panel, made an essential outward-looking one.

Noting an excellent piece of research by women’s beer collective Dea Latis – The Gender Pint Gap – she said the UK has one of the lowest women’s beer drinkerships in Europe. Just 17 per cent of women drink beer once a week compared to 50 per cent of men; and for only 9 per cent of women it’s our most-drunk alcoholic beverage, which rises to 40 per cent in men according to the 2018 report.

Brooklyn’s Gabe Barry: ‘We need to be allies – and avoid the dangers of tokenism’ (Brooklyn Brewery)

For all the strides made by women in brewing, the study authors admit there’s an industry bubble and “the female consumer hasn’t been on the same journey”.

Why does all this matter? Surely it’s long been acceptable to be outwardly female and sit down with a pint? And with International Women’s Day in mind, aren’t there more pressing inequalities to consider than who drinks what?

Well, “what-about-ery” will always be a common theme during discussions on feminism in the run-up to IWD, so to state the bleeding obvious, equality in food and drink doesn’t need to come at the detriment of equality elsewhere. Beer is deeply cultural – anyone should be able to enjoy it, and with the range of styles and pairings available, I’d say everyone can – but perhaps the reasons listed by women for not choosing beer highlight the years of sexism that need to be unpicked.

The biggest reported deterrents to women drinking beer were male-oriented advertising, calorific content and concerns about being judged by others, reported by 27 per cent, 20 per cent and 17 per cent of women respectively.

These have held despite bans on sexist advertising by the BA, Siba and Campaign for real ale; scientific research which proves other alcoholic beverages are just as if not more “fattening” than beer and the simple fact that we’re in the 21st century.

But even as an under-30 I remember images of scantily clad women in prominent beer campaigns. Conditioning has ensured I worry about my own beer belly when the last thing I ever want to do is discuss beer and calories. And in online image searches, you can still find the stereotypes: groups of lads socialising, beer in hand, while young women continue to chuckle away at their salads, chinking glasses of bubbly – if they’re lucky. Despite how ridiculous it seems, the image of beer as a man’s drink is still pervasive.

The overwhelming feeling from the women at Craft Beer Rising was that they’re tired of the same conversations – between themselves and other passionate marginalised voices in beer. “The ultimate,” said Wild Card’s Wise, “would be to be on other panels, talking about other things.”

But while such a huge section of the market remains untapped – uninitiated to the pleasure of beer, and held back by outdated perceptions that have yet to die – the conversation must, for now, rumble on. Just don’t ask if I’d like a half, please.

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International Women’s Day events

There are a range of wonderful beer-related activities open to the public on and around IWD 2019, a few of which are listed below. But, whoever and wherever you are, you can very easily make one small step for women and beer. Dea Latis’s research found that friends and family – far more than advertising, glassware or a range of other measures – have the power to turn women to beer. If you’re partial to a brew, why not share that passion (responsibly!) with a woman in your life who’s overlooked beer until now?

International Women’s Collaboration Brew Day – worldwide

Now in its fifth year, IWCBD links breweries across the globe on International Women’s Day, giving everyone the chance to get involved, whether experienced or not. It’s the brainchild of Sophie de Ronde, head brewer at Burnt Mill Brewery in Suffolk, and beers are brewed under the Unite brand. This year’s theme is “Forage”: find out more, and where your nearest participating brewery is, at unitebrew.org.

Siris Beer Festival Symposium – Newcastle, 7 March, 7.30-9.30pm

This evening of discussion counts some of the biggest hitters in the beer industry among its panellists. Award-winning critic Melissa Cole, trainer and author Annabel Smith and brewer Jenn Merrick will be joined by Julia Austin of Tyne Bank Brewery and Aaron Butler of Ship Isis in Sunderland. They’ll discuss sexism in the beer industry alongside topics of their choice, with a Q&A to follow.

The Five Points x Honest Brew Women in Beer Showcase and Collab Launch – Hackney, 7 March, 7-10pm

To coincide with the first of a series of panel talks, the women of Five Points and Honest Brew are launching their collaboration brew Straight Up Pale Ale, proceeds of which will support women and girls’ charity Rosa. You’ll find a selection of female-led brews on the taps too. On the panel for the evening are Duvel’s Natalya Watson, brewing professor Rachel Sutherland, the aforementioned Sophie de Ronde of IWCBD, and Britney Beeby and Charlotte Owen of Honest Brew.

Wild Women Weekend – Walthamstow, 7-10 March

Founded last year, this programme of free events is run by The #iamDJ Appreciation Society, She17 and Wild Card Brewery. They’re all hosted as Safe Spaces and you’ll find quizzes, spoken word, open mic, DJ sets and more, with delicious local beer to boot. There’s also fundraising throughout the weekend for Girls Rock London, a non-profit that creates opportunities for women and girls to make and perform music.

I’ll be heading to Signature Brew in Leyontonstone on International Women’s Day, where I’ll join women-fronted punk bands to brew a beer for Manchester Punk Festival which aims to make a statement about equality in beer and music.