How to make mayonnaise and hollandaise sauces

Kitchen masterclass: In the third part of our collaboration with Leiths School of Food and Wine we are learning how to make essential sauces from mayonnaise to creamy hollandaise

Emulsions

Vigorous whisking and the correct temperature are both factors that help to create the emulsion. What’s that? It’s when two ingredients that would naturally separate end up making a smooth, slightly thickened mixture. Natural emulsifiers such as egg yolk, mustard and seasoning do their bit too.

Stable emulsions hold their form unless, as can happen with mayo, the oil is added too quickly or the emulsion is overheated (a danger with hollandaise and beurre blanc). Unstable emulsions such as vinaigrettes separate on standing. In classic sauce-making, the three most commonly used stable emulsions are: mayonnaise, hollandaise and beurre blanc.

Mayonnaise

Makes 300ml

2 egg yolks, at room temperature
Pinch of English mustard powder
​300ml sunflower oil or a combination of sunflower and light olive oil
Lemon juice or white wine vinegar, to taste
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

We use a basic ratio of 1 egg yolk to 150ml oil. A mild-flavoured oil such as sunflower is preferable, as a strongly flavoured oil such as extra virgin olive oil may overpower the dish it accompanies.

1. Put the egg yolks into a medium, fairly deep bowl, with a pinch of salt and the mustard on top of the yolks. Using a wooden spoon, mix the egg yolks and seasoning together.

2. Hold a fork with your other hand, dip it into the oil and then drip the oil onto the egg yolks, while stirring the yolks at the same time. Add a third of the oil in this way.

3. Once a third of the oil has been added, start adding the oil ¼ tsp at a time, still stirring as you add it. Then progress to ½ tsp oil at a time. If the mayonnaise becomes very thick and looks greasy, add ½ tsp lemon juice, wine vinegar or warm water, depending on whether you think the mayonnaise needs acidity or not. This will make it less greasy, thin it and help it to absorb more oil.

4. Once about half to two-thirds of the oil has been added by teaspoon, start to add the oil slowly in a thin stream and keep stirring. Try to add all the oil to balance the egg flavour.

5. Taste the mayonnaise. Season it with salt and white pepper, and add lemon juice or white wine vinegar as needed to balance the oil and acidity.

6. You should now have a shiny, thick, smooth mayonnaise. If not using immediately, cover the bowl with cling film and refrigerate.

Note: This mayonnaise can be kept in the fridge for up to a week if stored in a screw-topped jar in the fridge

2. Dripping the oil on to the egg yolks from a fork, while stirring (Photos: Peter Cassidy) (Peter Cassidy)

3. Adding the oil less than half a teaspoon at a time, stirring continuously (Peter Cassidy)

4. Adding the last of the oil in a steady stream (Peter Cassidy)

5. Adding lemon juice to balance the acidity (Peter Cassidy)

6. The finished shiny, thick, smooth mayonnaise (Peter Cassidy)

Variations

Herb mayonnaise: Add 3 tbsp chopped herbs (chervil, chives, parsley etc) to the finished mayonnaise.

Aioli: Add 3 or 4 crushed garlic cloves to the egg yolks before starting to add the oil. If you prefer a milder garlic flavour, roast the garlic cloves in their skins for 20-30 minutes in an oven preheated to 180C / gas mark 4 until soft. Release the softened garlic from the skin, crush and add to the yolks as for the raw garlic.

Gribiche sauce: This is traditionally made by emulsifying cooked egg yolks with oil. Soft-boil 2 eggs and use the soft cooked yolks to create the emulsion. Finely chop the cooked egg white and add to the finished mayonnaise with 1 tbsp each of finely chopped capers and shallots and 1-2 tbsp chopped tarragon, chives, parsley or chervil, or a mixture. This sauce is traditionally served with fish or chicken.

Mustard mayonnaise: Add 1 tsp Dijon mustard to the yolks instead of mustard powder, and 1-2 tbsp wholegrain mustard to taste, to the finished mayonnaise.

Sweet miso sauce: Mix together 1 tbsp white miso paste, 2 tsp wasabi paste, 2 tbsp lime juice, 2 tbsp water and 1 tsp soft light brown sugar, to form a smooth paste. Stir this into the finished mayonnaise. This is good served with griddled fish.

Tarragon sauce: Add 3 tbsp chopped tarragon to the finished mayonnaise. Thin down to the required consistency with well-flavoured, cold chicken or vegetable stock. This sauce can be served with a chicken salad.

Tartare sauce: To the finished mayonnaise, add 1-2 tbsp each of finely chopped gherkins, capers, parsley and shallot. You might want to use less shallot as it can be strong, and rinse the gherkins and capers first. Typically served with fish.

Creating the emulsion

This happens during the first few minutes of adding the oil to the egg yolk. A constant stirring with one hand and dripping oil in with the other is necessary to ensure the oil is quickly and evenly dispersed into the yolks. If the oil is added too quickly there is a danger of curdling/splitting the sauce. Curdling happens when the yolks and oil separate and the stable emulsion you have created is destroyed.

Balancing the acidity

It is important to add enough acidity in the form of lemon juice or white wine vinegar to achieve a balance between the oil and acidity. You have used 300ml oil and 2 egg yolks (which have a high fat content) to make the mayonnaise – if there is not enough acidity the mayonnaise will taste too oily.

How to remedy curdled mayonnaise…

Start with an egg yolk in a medium bowl. Slowly add the curdled mayonnaise while stirring, until an emulsion is created again, then start to add the curdled mayonnaise a little more quickly until it is all incorporated. As you’ve now used 3 egg yolks you might need to add more oil, up to 150ml to balance the flavour.

To lighten mayonnaise…

Use 1 whole egg and 1 egg yolk for 290ml mayonnaise. Egg white contains a lot of water so it may take a little longer for the emulsion to be created and the mayonnaise to thicken but it does give a less cloying taste.

Making mayonnaise in a food processor or blender

To ensure the blade is covered by the yolks and seasoning, use the small bowl of a food processor; at least double the quantities if using a blender. Switch the motor on and slowly add the oil in a single stream, but not too quickly or the mayonnaise may curdle. It should thicken quite quickly. Adjust the seasoning as above.

Hollandaise

Makes 250ml-300ml

For the reduction

50ml white wine vinegar
​50ml water
6 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 mace blade

For the sauce

150g unsalted butter, at cool room temperature
3 egg yolks
Few drops of lemon juice, to taste
Salt and ground white pepper

This method makes a wonderful thick, dense sauce that is perfect for coating eggs and fish, or serving with vegetables.

1. Put the vinegar, water, peppercorns, bay leaf and mace into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the liquid by at least two-thirds, then strain to remove the peppercorns, bay and mace.

2. Cut the butter into 1cm cubes. Put the egg yolks, a cube of butter and a small pinch of salt in a small bowl. Using a wooden spoon, cream the butter into the egg yolks, add ½ - 1 tsp vinegar reduction and stir to combine.

3. Half-fill a roasting tin with water and set over a medium heat, to create a warm water bath (bain-marie). Heat until the water is hand-hot, so that you can still dip your fingers in and not burn yourself. A bubble might occasionally rise to the surface – if you have it too hot, the sauce will curdle.

4. Stand the bowl containing the egg yolk, butter and reduction mixture in the bain-marie and stir until the egg yolks visibly start to thicken.

5. Beat the remaining butter in, a cube at a time, making sure that the sauce has re-thickened before adding the next cube of butter. As more butter is added, the heat can gradually be increased a little, but take care that the water does not boil. If the sauce becomes very thick and appears greasy, add a little more reduction or cool water.

6. Once all the butter has been added, remove the sauce from the roasting tin, taste it and adjust the seasoning. To achieve a balanced flavour, you may need to add more reduction, lemon juice, salt and ground white pepper. The sauce can be kept for about 30 minutes before serving, in a bain marie.

Variations

Choron sauce: Make as for hollandaise and add ½ - 1 tsp tomato purée to the finished sauce. This can be served with fish or chicken.

Herb hollandaise: Omit the mace from the reduction and add 1 small, chopped shallot and a few herbs sprigs, such as parsley, chervil or chives. Proceed as for hollandaise and add ½ - 1 tsp of freshly chopped herb (the same herb used to infuse the reduction) to the finished sauce. Season with lemon juice and cayenne pepper. This is not a classic variation but delicious nonetheless.

Mousseline sauce: Make as for hollandaise and add 50ml lightly whipped cream to the finished sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning. This can be served with fish or vegetable dishes.

Béarnaise sauce: Omit the mace from the reduction and add 1 small, chopped shallot and a few tarragon and chervil sprigs. Proceed as for hollandaise and add ½ - 1 tsp each of chopped tarragon and chervil and 1 tsp of glace de viande to the finished sauce. A classic sauce to accompany steaks.

Paloise sauce: Make as for béarnaise, but substitute 2-3 tsp chopped mint for the tarragon and chervil. A contemporary twist on béarnaise to serve with lamb.

1. Straining the reduction through a sieve (Photos: Peter Cassidy) (Peter Cassidy)

2. Adding ½ - 1 tsp reduction to the creamed butter and egg yolks (Peter Cassidy)

3. Testing the temperature of the bain-marie. (Peter Cassidy)

4. Stirring the egg yolk, butter and reduction mix over the bain-marie until it starts to thicken (Peter Cassidy)

5. Beating in the remaining butter, one cube at a time (Peter Cassidy)

6. Balancing the flavour of the sauce with a little more reduction, lemon juice and seasoning (Peter Cassidy)

Making hollandaise in a double boiler

This makes a lighter, more mousse-like hollandaise. Sometimes referred to as the ‘sabayon’ method, it is especially useful when making a larger quantity of sauce. The ingredients and quantities are the same as for the main recipe.

Make the reduction as for the main recipe. Pour water into a large saucepan to a depth of 5cm, then bring to a simmer. Select a bowl large enough to sit over the pan, with the base well above the water level. Put the egg yolks in the bowl with 1 tsp reduction and a pinch of salt. Whisk the egg yolks with a balloon whisk until light and fluffy. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Still whisking the egg mousse, slowly pour in the butter. Once it is all added, remove the bowl from the pan and season with more reduction or lemon juice, salt and white pepper.

Making hollandaise in a blender

Double the quantities (to ensure the blender blades are covered with egg yolk). Make the reduction. Place the egg yolks, 2 tsp reduction and a pinch of salt in the blender. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Once the butter is just starting to separate and is still bubbling, pour a little into the blender with the motor running. Add a little more and the emulsion should be created, with a definite change in the sound the blender motor makes, from a high-pitched whine to a lower, slightly labouring noise. Continue to add the butter slowly in a thin stream until all but the milk solids are added. Avoid adding the milk solids as they can thin the sauce. Taste and season with more reduction, lemon juice, salt and ground white pepper.

Consistency

The emulsion is created as the butter is dispersed into the egg yolk. The sauce begins to thicken as the yolk reaches a high enough temperature to coagulate and thicken the sauce. You need to allow the sauce to thicken between each addition of butter or it will remain very thin. Start slowly, and as more and more of the butter is added the sauce will become thicker, and the butter can be added a little more quickly. Using the basic method, the finished consistency should hold itself on a spoon. It is possible to thicken the sauce at the end of the cooking process, with continued stirring and a gradual increase in temperature, but it requires care and patience not to overheat the sauce.

How to save a hollandaise on the verge of splitting…

If the sauce becomes very thick and appears greasy, it may be just about to split. Remove the sauce from the heat and add a little reduction or room temperature water, or a small piece of ice. Confine your stirring to the addition itself, gradually drawing in the rest of the curdled mixture. This should bring it back, loosen it and lighten the colour a little, allowing it to continue to absorb more butter.

How to remedy split hollandaise…

If the sauce has split completely, start with a fresh egg yolk, add a little reduction and remake using the split hollandaise in place of the butter. You will need to add more butter after adding all the split hollandaise, as there will now be 4 yolks in the sauce.

Beurre blanc

Makes 150–200ml

½ shallot
​50ml white wine vinegar
​50ml water
200g cold, unsalted butter
Few drops of lemon juice
Salt and ground white pepper

1 Peel and finely dice the shallot and put it in a small saucepan with the vinegar and water. Place over a medium heat and slowly reduce the liquid by at least two-thirds. Strain to remove the shallots.

2 Cut the butter into 1cm cubes and keep chilled and firm. Put ½ tbsp reduction in a small saucepan and, over a gentle heat, add a cube of cold butter. Using a small sauce whisk, whisk the butter into the reduction as vigorously as you can. The sauce requires constant, vigorous whisking.

3 As the butter melts fully, add another cube of butter, repeating the vigorous whisking. Continue in this manner until the sauce is starting to thicken and at least half the butter has been added. Now the butter can be added a little more quickly, all the while ensuring the saucepan is not getting too hot, as too much heat will split the sauce. Make sure the sauce heats up between additions.

4 Once all the butter has been added the sauce should be pale, with a creamy consistency. Taste and season with more reduction, lemon juice, salt and ground white pepper. The sauce will keep briefly, but not for long; it is usually made just before serving.

Variations

For a more classical version, substitute a dry white wine in the reduction for the wine vinegar.

Mustard beurre blanc: Stir ½ - 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard into the finished sauce.

Chicken beurre blanc: Substitute 100ml chicken and veal stock for the water in the reduction, and reduce to 1 tbsp.

Fish beurre blanc: Proceed as for the chicken beurre blanc, but with fish instead of chicken and veal stock in the reduction.

Creation the emulsion

Creating an emulsion is more difficult when making a beurre blanc, because no egg yolk is involved. The cold butter must be vigorously whisked into the reduction to disperse it as finely and evenly as possible as it slowly melts: this is what creates the emulsion. Butter that is not cold will melt too quickly and you will not be able to disperse it quickly enough into the reduction, resulting in a split or thin sauce.

For the sauce to thicken, the butter must not be added too quickly, which is why each cube of butter must be fully incorporated before the next is added. Adding the butter too quickly initially will result in a thin sauce that is difficult to thicken later on. Only once at least half the butter has been added and a double cream consistency has been achieved can the butter be added a little more quickly, but still carefully.

Stabilising a beurre blanc

To stabilise a beurre blanc, once the reduction is made, add 1 tbsp double cream and reduce again by about half. Then whisk the butter in.

Balancing the flavour of emulsion sauces

All the basic emulsion sauce recipes use fat, acidity and sometimes egg yolk. It is important in making and finishing the sauces that they are balanced in terms of flavour, even before other flavourings are added. Where egg yolk is included in the base, enough oil or butter must be added to balance the eggy flavour, which is especially noticeable with raw eggs. With so much oil or butter, enough acidity is required to balance the cloying nature of the fat.

Acidity is generally added in the form of vinegar or lemon juice. Reducing vinegar softens the harshness of it, but the underlying acidity base is still present. The process of balancing the flavour of the fat begins in the early stages of making the sauce, with the addition of a little reduction or lemon juice to the yolk. In the final balancing and seasoning of the sauce both reduction and lemon juice should be used, as well as salt and pepper, as the tongue reacts to different forms of acidity in different places. If a sauce is a little too acidic, try adding a little more salt, and vice versa.

A note on using butter…

It is very important to use unsalted butter in a hollandaise or beurre blanc, as salted butter will over-season the sauce

Leiths How to Cook by Leiths School of Food and Wine (Quadrille, £30) Photography © Peter Cassidy