The queer beer revolution: How brewing is being harnessed in the fight for equality
As Pride celebrations culminate in the UK and around the world, Jo Turner speaks to brewers and activists about brands that shamelessly profit from rainbow capitalism, and how beer can be used for social change
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Your support makes all the difference.“I’ll be honest, we never really wanted a beer company,” says Ethan Spibey.
“We were just fed up with people slapping a rainbow flag on their product, saying they cared for a month of the year, then going quiet again.”
The co-founder of Proud Beer – the “original queer beer for good” – is explaining a crucial part of the brand’s philosophy.
“Kids don’t get bullied in schools just in the month of June-July, so if you’re genuinely serious about support, do it all year round and show it by the decisions you take as a business.”
The project is designed to spread the message that the burden of inciting social change shouldn’t only be on those who need it most
Proud, the brainchild of Spibey and his boyfriend Soren, has been operating for 15 months on a simple USP: 20p from every bottle of its flagship ale, LGBTQIPA, goes to the company’s chosen LGBT+ charities, “no percentage of profits, no corporate jargon, just a straightforward donation and statement of support with every sale”.
It’s part of a “queer beer revolution” which has added to calls for diversity in an industry dominated by, and marketed towards, straight, white men.
From driving acceptance and visibility on the inside, to supporting the LGBT+ community through fundraising, to taking a stand against rainbow capitalism – where companies shamelessly profit from Pride – proponents and allies are looking to beer as a tool for social change.
“Everything can have a role to play in the fight for inclusivity,” says Lily Waite, one of the UK beer scene’s most prominent advocates for queer and trans representation, and founder of The Queer Brewing Project (TQBP). “Beer, specifically craft or modern beer, absolutely has a role in that fight. It’s seen from the outside as a progressive movement, and it could be a reasonably large proponent of greater inclusivity, if the industry chose to do so.”
TQBP recently launched with its first beer, a spritzy, blackcurrant pale ale called Queer Royale. The initiative will see Waite collaborate with breweries on a series of one-offs, with each beer supporting a different LGBT+ charity.
The industry can be something of a bubble and at the consumer end, in pubs and bars, homophobia and transphobia are still rife
Crucially, Waite won’t be working specifically with breweries staffed by LGBT+ people: the project is designed to spread the message that the burden of inciting social change shouldn’t only be on those who need it most.
“It doesn’t matter whether you’re a brewer, dray person, bartender or drinker, everyone has a responsibility to further queer representation and rights,” she says.
Waite and Spibey say the openness to their projects shows how attitudes have changed, and how beer itself is shaking off stereotypes. But the industry can be something of a bubble, notes Waite, and at the consumer end, in pubs and bars, homophobia and transphobia are still rife.
Joe Bisacca, co-founder of Elysian Brewing Company in Seattle, says it’s down to breweries and pubs to provide safe spaces for everyone. “This year, with the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall Riots, we wanted to drive inclusivity messaging further, show discrimination has no place in our house, and that we have the back of the LGBTQ+ community.”
As a sponsor of Seattle’s Pride parade, the company made a statement on the day by holding a same-sex wedding in its brewpub, officiated by Jonathan Van Ness of Netflix’s Queer Eye reboot, and has been brewing its own offering for the occasion, Glitteris Pride Ale, sales of which will support Seattle Pride.
So how can we know larger companies aren’t jumping on the inclusivity bandwagon to make an easy buck? After all, Elysian itself shares a parent company with Budweiser, a Pride in London beer sponsor whose contribution – particularly in the form of some LGBT+-themed cups – has been controversial to say the least.
“It all comes down to authenticity, putting your money where your mouth is, and making a difference,” says Bisacca. “If the depth of your involvement is surface level, what impact does this have?
“Companies should go deeper than turning existing assets rainbow for the month of June. From diversity recruiting efforts to donating financially to providing a platform for awareness, or listening and partnering with the LGBTQ+ community. There are many rich and amazing ways to make an impact.”
“One key thing for me is whether that beer or product has been created especially for pride, or whether someone’s simply slapped a rainbow on their existing bottle,” says Waite. “It’s also rather telling if the brewery’s supporting an LGBT+ charity via the sales of the beer – if not, then it’s pure, unashamed rainbow capitalism.”
Change always seems to come slowly, particularly in a saturated industry with so many established players. Waite believes discrimination, coupled with the lack of high-profile queer and trans people in the field, can create barriers for would-be LGBT+ brewers.
But there’s a social power to beer which advocates for underrepresented groups believe in. “We’re passionate that our original queer beer for good is a brilliant place to start the conversation. Beer is social, it’s a talking point, and we’re using it as a platform to showcase our fabulous community,” says Spibey.
“Beer’s a liquid (a delicious one at that); it has no gender, no race, no sexuality,” says Waite. “Beer isn’t solely drunk by the ‘majority’, so why should it not have anything to do with minorities?”
Five beers to that give back to the LGBT+ community
Affinity x The Queer Brewing Project – Queer Royale, 4% ABV, coming soon
TQBP’s first beer takes its inspiration from Kir Royale. It’s packed with blackcurrants, fermented with champagne yeast, and will be an easy-drinking summer smash hit.
Proud – LGBTQIPA, 4.1% ABV, proud.beer/shop
Another ideal session beer, this is brewed with Yorkshire water, New World hops and a little wheat, and is easy-going with a crisp finish.
Hackney Brewery – Unicorn Rodeo, 4% ABV, honestbrew.co.uk
This double dry-hopped XPA is packed with simcoe, mosaic, and citra and brewed with pilsner malt to make it extra pale. A summery thirst-quencher.
Brooklyn Brewery – The Stonewall Inn IPA, 4.8% ABV, on premises and in variety packs
Brooklyn has long been partnered with The Stonewall Inn, where 50 years ago the riots began that led to the modern LGBT+ movement. Brewed with citra hops, this has grapefruit on the nose and a crisp finish.
Elysian Brewing – Glitteris Pride Ale, 4.4% ABV, US stores and Elysian pubs
This cream ale is brewed with mandarina hops for a fruit-forward character, as well as raspberry and blackberry purees.
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