Top festive tipples

With Christmas just two weeks away, Richard Ehrlich reveals his annual vinous shopping list for the day of the grand feast. He writes: 'This shopping list is organised by retailer, and apologies if I haven't covered the one where you shop. While I have tried to give a broad range of prices, I have assumed that you will not, on the whole, be pinching your festive pennies. Happy hunting'

Sunday 11 December 2005 01:00 GMT
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Majestic

Huge selection, some keen pricing, and knowledgeable staff - Majestic goes from strength to strength in the marketplace.

Bubbles As always, Majestic beats all comers when it comes to Champagne discounts. One of the best: Nicolas Feuillatte NV, £10.49 (50 per cent discount) when you buy two.

Whites

For Sauvignon Blanc with New World zing at low prices, try the outstanding Montes Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Casablanca Valley, at £5.99 (or £4.79 if you buy any two Chilean wines). For Chardonnay fans with a bit of spare dosh: Pouilly-Fuissé 'Terroirs Rares' 2004, from the excellent Christophe Cordier. A well oaked but impeccably balanced white Burgundy that would work just as well with turkey as with smoked salmon.

Reds

Claret lovers should consider buying several bottles of the very forward St Paul de Dominique 2001, St Emilion (£11.99 or £9.99 if you buy two); this is the second wine of Château Dominique, an excellent property, and drinking beautifully now. For Pinot-philes: Yering Station Pinot Noir 2003, Yarra Valley (£9.99), a silky, succulent example from one of Australia's best Pinot areas.

Afterwards

To go with Christmas pud there is one marriage made in heaven: Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos 2000 (on offer at £13.99/50cl), a reasonably priced representative of Hungary's greatest gift to the wine world. And one low-priced sweetie with lively acidity lifting intense sultana flavours: Almond Grove Noble Late Harvest Riesling 2003, from South Africa's Robertson Winery (£5.99 or £4.99 if you sensibly buy two). Port fans: do not resist Taylors Quinta de Vargellas 1996 (£24 or £22 if you buy any two selected ports). This great port estate at its finest.

Waitrose

There may be strong competition among supermarket wine departments, but Waitrose easily leads the field (as ever).

Bubbles

Waitrose Blanc de Noirs NV (£15.99) manages richness and sprightliness at the same time. Waitrose Brut NV in a magnum (£30.99), 75 per cent black grapes, is a guaranteed show-stopper for a crowd. Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve, Mis en Cave 2001 (£24.99, also at Booths) represents luxury at a higher but eminently fair price.

Whites

For traditionalists: Sancerre Cuvée des Anges 2004 (£9.99) and a delicately oak-brushed Chablis 2004, William Fèvre (£11.99). For ecstasy: Pouilly-Fuissé 2003, Domaine Thibert (£14.99). For the adventurous: Felsner Grüner Veltliner Moosburgerin 2004 (£7.99), a creamy example of Austria's great white grape variety, and Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2004 (£9.99), a relatively restrained rendition of this fashionable variety despite its head-thumping 14.5 per cent alcohol.

Reds

A trio: Clos de los Siete 2004 (£9.99, limited availability), Argentina's star blend; La Crema Pinot Noir 2000 (£14.99), silky stuff from Carneros; and Manta Preta 2004 (£5.99), a food-friendly blend of indigenous varieties from Estremadura.

Afterwards

Budget sweetie: Château les Sablines 2002, Monbazillac (£6.99/50cl). Sweetie to die for: Château La Varière Les Melleresses 2000, Bonnezeaux (£25/50cl).

Asda

Asda's wine buying has been going through a period of retrenchment whose ultimate direction is unclear, but they're well represented in three solid names: Blason de Bourgogne, Australia's Brown Brothers (good whites especially), and the Gerard Bertrand wines from southern France.

Bubbles

A selection of the standard Champagne brands includes the excellent Lanson Vintage 1996, good value at £27.98 (but only at selected stores).

Whites

Chardonnay lovers: look to Laroche Chablis 2004 (£8.99, which is also available at Sainsbury's and Tesco) a good, unoaked example, with correctly steely character, alternatively you could try the outstanding Chilean Tabali Chardonnay Reserva Especial 2004 (£7.98, which is on deeply discounted offer, at the time of writing, at sainsburyswine.co.uk).

Reds

Two good, cheap Pinots: Blason de Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2004 (£5.96) and Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2004 (£4.98). One expensive but excellent Pinot: Avant Garde Pinot Noir 2002 from Carneros in California (£13.99, sadly just in nine stores).

Afterwards

Cranswick Botrytis Semillon 2002 (£3.99/37.5cl) is a serviceable companion for Christmas pudding.

M&S

M&S has a smaller wine list than other multiples, but it continues to be one of the strongest in overall quality.

Bubbles

Saint Gall Grand Cru Champagne 2000 (£17.99 from £22.99 until 3 January) is even better than it was when I recommended it here last year. Or Desroches NV, creamy and toasty and down from £18.99 to £13.99. For something low in alcohol and in price: Prosecco NV (£6.99), a lovely light mouthful.

Whites

Casa Leona Chardonnay 2005 (£4.99), nice Chilean with a light kiss of French oak; a fine Pouilly-Fuissé 2004 (£9.99) with subtle nuances; and the very reasonable Ernst Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2004 (£9.99), a Mosel marvel. Low-cost star for a crowd: Viña Ulmo Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (£3.69).

Reds

Two heavy-hitting California reds for mealtimes: the affordable Zamora Zinfandel 2004 (£6.99) and Clos de Reynard 2004 (£8.99), a big, beguiling blend. Two French out-performers: Cuvée Extrême 2003 (£7.99), a juicy cocktail from the Côtes du Roussillon; and Château Haut Carmaillet 2001 (£9.99), fine balance from the Haut-Médoc. Low-cost star for a crowd: Viña Ulmo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (£3.69).

Afterwards

Treat yourself to Darting Estate Eiswein 1997, dried apricots and crème brûlée in a bottle (£12/37.5cl), or a textbook Twenty Year Old Tawny Port (£21.99).

Sainsbury's

JS sells its most interesting wines via its online and mail order arm, sainsburyswine.co.uk. But the stores have ample choice.

Bubbles

Among its own-label Champagnes, the Blanc de Noirs Brut (£13.99) and Premier Cru Extra Dry (£14.99) are both tip-top lower-priced buys.

Whites

Two South Africans: Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (£7.99) or Springfield Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (£8.99). For Sauvignon Blanc on its home turf: the classic Sancerre La Moussière 2004 (£13.99). Affordable Chardonnay of high quality: Villa Maria Private Bin Unoaked Chardonnay 2005 (£5.99).

Reds

Red choices: Mont Tauch 2003 (£5.99), a typically appealing Fitou from an exemplary co-operative; Crozes Hermitage 2003 (£6.99), well rounded and nicely spicy; and the well structured Château La Vieille Cure 2000 (£14.99) for claret lovers.

Afterwards

Two fine 12-year-old sherries from the great house of Lustau, in the Taste the Difference range: Amontillado and Oloroso (both £6.99 for 50cl).

Tesco

Tesco is offering some pretty irresistible discounts.

Bubbles

Tesco Premier Cru Champagne NV is a supremely satisfying piece of work at a bargain price (£14.79). Though lovers of delicate grandes marques will be tempted by Taittinger NV at £22.99.

Whites

Two good Chardonnays: Tesco Finest Chablis 2004 (£4.99 from £7.99), proper unoaked Chablis; and De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2004 (£13.99, also at Oddbins for £12.99), with lively citrus and good oak. Riesling fans, please buy Great Southern Riesling 2003 (£5.99), a lime-rich Australian zinger.

Reds

Château Martin 2001 (£6.99 from £9.99) is a good, lightweight claret, but I'm more taken with the weightier Château Reysson 2002 from the Haut-Médoc at £9.99.

Afterwards

A great-value sweetie: Tesco Finest Botrytis Sémillon 2002, Riverina (£5.53/37.5cl); or Tesco Finest Sauternes 2002 (£11.99/37.5cl). Room for Port? Make it Dows Crusted Port (£13.62).

Oddbins

Not as market-leading as it once was, but this eminent high-street name still has a few tricks up its sleeve.

Bubbles

Two vintage Champagne stars here: F Bonnet 1996 (£21.99), showing mature marmalade-y notes; and Pierre Gimonnet 1er Cru Gastronome 2000 (£20.99), a Blanc de Blancs of exceptional richness.

Whites

With any starter I'd kill for a glass of Menetou-Salon Le Prieure 2004, Henri Bourgois's exemplary Sauvignon Blanc with its piercing acidity (£9.89). Flagstone 'Fish Hoek' Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (£5.99) is a gooseberry-rich alternative from South Africa at a lower cost. Traditionalists might prefer Alain Geoffroy's Chablis 2004 (£9.99).

Reds

Low-priced wunderkind: Doña Dominga Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère 2004 (£4.99), full but not overblown. Claret lovers on a budget should like Château Amarande 1998 (£8.99), a smoothly oaky, Merlot-dominated blend. Finca Valpiedra Reserva 1997 (£16.49) is an extraordinary, new-style Rioja with flesh, structure and real class.

Afterwards

For a touch of sweetness, good with Stilton: Séduction de la Beaugravière 2003, Jurançon Doux (£8.49). Honeysuckle in a glass with caramel and dried-fruits galore. For an even lighter touch, with low alcohol (6.5 per cent), try a curiosity from Australia: Two Hands 'Brilliant Disguise' Moscato 2005 (£7.99).

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