The unhampered picnic

Forget the wicker baskets, invest in a cool box or two and take some lessons from the French. It will be worth it, promises

The picnic apparently dates back to the 16th century. There was actually a Picnic Society in London in the early 19th century, set up by a group of young trend setters. Unfortunately it had to be dissolved in the 1850s when founding members died off.

But, dare I say it, the French seem to be better at pique-niques than us, and for 14 July I think it's worth taking a few lessons in eating outdoors from them. We're usually stuck in a sandwiches and crisps rut, or do no more than dash to the shops for something ready made. If you treat a picnic like a dinner party and invite some friends to join you it becomes a whole new experience.

First, though, you need to be prepared. Call the Met Office on 0845 3000300 a day or two before you plan to go. Brush up on basic hygiene precautions. If the food isn't kept at the right temperature some of it could become lethal – maybe that's what did for members of the Picnic Society. The cool box wasn't invented when it was formed. But I'd advise you to use one – or two as they're not usually big enough to fit everything in – not just to keep drinks cold but to prevent the bugs in the cold meat, dairy, fish and eggs from having their own little party.

The American cool box, which plugs into your cigarette lighter like a mini fridge, is a good idea, although I prefer the type we use for outside catering, which looks a bit like a safe and has removable trays inside, which means you can get really organised. Available from Pages, 121 Shaftesbury Avenue, London WC2 (020-7565 5959).

To break out of the hard-boiled eggs and pork pie syndrome you can take the stroll-round-a-supermarket approach to planning a picnic. Make it up as you go along. That's what I do. I know I'm a chef, but anyone can do it. Look, some smoked salmon; here's the horseradish to go with it; and some fancy new potatoes and, here, in the meat section, some pork escalopes which you could cook on one of those handy disposable barbecues. Or over on the fish counter, what about swordfish, tuna steaks or prawns? Fresh strawberries, crème fraiche and away we go. Oh, the wine. Rosé is perfect. Some soft drinks for the kids, and don't forget the salad. Just make a bit of dressing at home to go with the pre-mixed pack. It really is as easy as it sounds. Think in the box and keep it simple and practical. A picnic doesn't have to be restricted to the rug-and-hamper repertoire.

The one and only time I was invited to the polo at Windsor, I thought I had better put on a bit of a spread (as you do). A cold lobster with asparagus and mayonnaise, some Scotch eggs (made with quails' eggs, of course) and the petit pot au chocolat for pud did the trick. As the Rollers parked up, heads turned and the fancy hampers didn't seem up to it after all ...

Picnic basket checklist

• a cool box (don't forget the ice packs in the freezer) or bag of ice to keep food and drinks cool
• small chopping board
• cutting knife and bread knife
• plates and glasses (preferably not glass or china)
• napkins
• wet wipes
• bin bags
• water
• matches or lighter if barbecuing (don't forget the charcoal)
• bottle opener/corkscrew