The Drinks Column: World cup wine

Vintage stuff it was, that 1966. The last of 12 bottles of 1966 Heidsieck Dry Monopole, produced specially for the England World Cup squad, went under the hammer at Sotheby's last week. Given that footballing triumphs require anointing both pitch and fellow team members' heads, it's miraculous that a bottle of the 1966 vintage fizz survived the clutches of the likes of Nobby Stiles and Bobby Moore.

With its special neck label, the "Reserved for England" Champers was presented by Sir Alf Ramsey to Jim Green, the England dressing-room attendant. But Mr Green never got round to drinking the stuff – the depressing fate of too many great wines. June is my cue for drinking the cellar dry. Not necessarily my own, mind. With France, the holders, kicking off, I'll be unselfishly helping a friend pull the cork on the last few bottles of his 1966 Château Margaux.

Alternatively, you could still find the odd great vintage Champagne with which to celebrate the occasion. Try the 1990 Pol Roger at a reasonable £34.99 at Sainsbury's or Roederer's 1990 in Waitrose at £45. If you're not up to funding a World Cup vintage, my advice is to lay in the delicate, sumptuously toasty Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, £14.99 (or £11.99 if you buy six), Oddbins.

Second only to France in the wine league, Italy hasn't been in sparkling World Cup form since it trumped France by winning the trophy in the great Bordeaux vintage of 1982. But prosecco, the Venetian speciality, is the ideal, summery fizz to splash out on Italy's World Cup hopes. Try the crisp Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, £5.59 (buying six) at Oddbins, the pleasingly grapey Prosecco La Marca, £5.49, Waitrose, or the deliciously peachy Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene, £5.59 (buying two) at Majestic Wine.

Third in the world wine league, Spain stands as good a chance as any country of proceeding to the quarter-finals, in which case, while younger Spaniards will be getting legless on the fino sherry and lemonade, those with more classic tastes can enjoy fine Rioja from the outstanding World Cup vintage of 1994, in the shape of the mature, leathery and spicily rich Campillo Rioja Reserva Especia, £10.99, Tesco. Germany meanwhile, although the world's number one importer of wines, faces such tough opposition in the early stages that its challenge could come crashing as heavily to earth as its beleaguered wine industry. More on its featherweight rieslings next week.

With Australia and Chile bowing out, the most credible New World challenge lies in the hands of Argentina. What more bittersweet way to toast an Argentinian victory than with the powerful kick of a truly fine new-wave malbec such as the wonderfully tarry, loganberry-like 2000 Black River Malbec, £8.99, Sainsbury's. Underdogs Uruguay, Slovenia and Croatia all have their vinous moments, but, like New World giants South Africa and the US, will be lucky to get beyond the first stages. If South Africa proceeds to the last 16, uncork the fabulous new vintage of the complex and full-flavoured 2001 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, £12.99, Oddbins. For the United States, it would have to be as momentous a wine as its achievement, so bring on the formidable Napa Valley red, 1998 Château Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, £69.95, Berry Bros & Rudd (020-7396 9611). And in the unlikely event that David Beckham should wrest the Cup back from the French? A toast to Sir Sven, and not a dry throat in the house, this or anyone else's.