‘You are only as good as your last meal’: How Panzer’s has kept London coming back for 80 years

Panzer’s deli has survived wars, recessions and London’s ever-changing food scene to remain one of the capital’s last great institutions. As it celebrates 80 years, David Josephs tells Hannah Twiggs why quality, choice and service are the secrets to longevity – and why, in hospitality, there’s no room for mistakes

The grand old deli of Circus Road – still standing, still thriving (Panzer's)

Panzer’s, the storied delicatessen in St John’s Wood, is marking its 80th anniversary. Eight decades is no small feat in an industry where even the best intentions can be flattened by rising costs, changing tastes and the sheer brutality of running a food business in Britain. And yet, Panzer’s stands – a bastion of bagels, smoked salmon and old-school charm, still drawing in the crowds as it has since 1944.

The deli is easy to spot on Circus Road, its signature green awning striking against the street. The newly expanded terrace hums with morning chatter, while inside, the deli’s distinctive moss green and salmon pink branding weaves through the space. Shelves are stacked high with produce from around the world, hand-selected from Italy to New Zealand.

Behind the gleaming glass counters, there’s a quiet theatre to the place – the practiced hand-slicing of salmon, the crackle of fresh challah being torn apart, the steady hum of customers greeting the staff by name. Some have been coming for generations. One woman, David Josephs recalls, visits every year on the same day to buy smoked salmon – for her dog’s birthday.

Josephs, Panzer’s owner – or as he prefers, custodian – has been at the helm for the past nine years. “On my watch, I have managed to keep it relevant in today’s times,” he says matter-of-factly. “If we maintain our community outlook and offer the service, quality and choice, then we should reach our 100th birthday in good shape.”

That service, quality and choice have long been the bedrock of Panzer’s. When it was first founded by Austrian and Czech refugees at the close of the Second World War, it provided a culinary lifeline to London’s Jewish community, its stacked counters echoing the great delis of New York. Under the stewardship of Walter Vogl and later his son Peter, the deli survived shifting food trends and the changing demographic of the area, remaining resolutely, unmistakably Panzer’s. But by the time Josephs took it over in 2014, it needed more than just a light touch.

“The deli in 2015 needed a little TLC,” he admits, “but it was crucial that with any changes we didn’t lose the spirit of the place.” Before making a single alteration, he spent 18 months working alongside Peter Vogl, absorbing the history, the idiosyncrasies and, crucially, what made customers come back week after week. “Many customers were worried that we would ruin the place,” he says, laughing. “However, since the 2017 refurbishment and the latest one in 2024, we have convinced the community of our good intentions.”

Custodian, not owner – David Josephs on keeping Panzer’s in safe hands (Poppy Thorpe)

The most recent updates are subtle but considered – a terrazzo floor, a restored tannoy system and a reimagined counter, all nodding back to the 1940s Adolf Loos aesthetic that first defined the space. But Panzer’s isn’t just about the way it looks. The menu has expanded while keeping its signature staples – the same bagels, the same house-sliced smoked salmon, the same salt beef, chicken schnitzel and matzo ball soup that have been ordered with the same familiarity for decades. The difference is in the details. “The range of delicious food we offer has expanded out of the kitchen in the basement, where we now prepare a large selection of freshly baked, roasted and grilled items, as well as ready-made dishes to take home and heat up.”

New additions include Circus Pizza, the latest project from Kit Delamain, whose sourdough bases are topped with everything from smoky pepperoni to wild garlic and Jersey Royals, and Sushi Atelier, where customers can now enjoy hand rolls alongside their smoked salmon bagels. It’s not about following trends, Josephs insists, but about maintaining Panzer’s standards. “Whenever we bring something new to Panzer’s, before we start, we have the proviso that it must be the best, otherwise we will not do it.”

The classics endure – hand-sliced smoked salmon and proper bagels, just as they should be (Poppy Thorpe)

Panzer’s endurance is all the more remarkable given the current climate. Running a deli in 2024 is not what it was in 1944. “The complexities of employing staff, and the bureaucracy one has to deal with on a daily basis now is far greater than 80 years ago,” Josephs says. “As is the speed of change, which is not always a good thing.” Brexit, he notes, has been the single most damaging factor to the business in terms of cost increases, made worse by the cost-of-living crisis. “We remain ever vigilant to these issues and work constantly to minimise the impact on the end price our customers pay, but inevitably, in some cases, these have increased.”

Not your average deli takeaway – Panzer’s pizzas, because why not? (Poppy Thorpe)

Yet, the biggest challenge might not be economic but cultural. The expectations are higher, the patience lower. “Yes, it is extremely hard and challenging. We have set a high standard and therefore need to meet that on a daily basis,” he says. “You are only as good as your last meal or service experience, and today’s society is far less tolerant.”

Even so, Panzer’s seems largely unaffected by the fate that has befallen so many independent food businesses in recent years. Where others have shuttered, Panzer’s continues to flourish. The reason, Josephs believes, is simple – quality, choice and service. “We offer an exciting range of products from around the globe, and our cafe makes everything fresh each day to order. The bread we make our sandwiches with is baked that morning. We use the best quality ingredients and the food on offer is very fairly priced – as is the wine, where one can have a glass for less than £5.”

That connection to quality, he suggests, is what draws customers to independent food shops rather than supermarkets. “Large supermarket chains can’t match the care and attention independent businesses offer to suppliers and customers. Independent shops build relationships, ensuring fair prices for suppliers and high-quality, well-sourced products for customers.” But he is keenly aware that their survival is not guaranteed. “The government’s past and present approach to food security has been short-sighted, with no strategy in place and no real support for farming. We need to return to having cooking classes in schools and for the nation to understand where food comes from, how it is produced, what that costs and all its complexities.”

From farm to flat white – where fine produce and good coffee go hand in hand (Poppy Thorpe)

For all its challenges, the day-to-day running of Panzer’s still brings joy. Josephs lights up when he speaks about his team. “The most exciting and rewarding part of running Panzer’s is undoubtedly the people. It’s incredibly fulfilling to support and develop individuals, helping them grow their skills and progress into leadership roles.” His customers, too, are a reminder of why he does it. “Sometimes one can have three or even four generations in the store at the same time – that is something very special.”

That generational pull is something Josephs understands firsthand. “I think coming with one’s grandparents on a Sunday morning to buy freshly sliced hand-cut smoked salmon and bagels and eating it in your pram, that was my first memory, with my grandparents… delicious.” It’s a ritual still alive today, the sight of toddlers clutching pieces of challah in their pushchairs as their parents and grandparents chat over the counter.

For those visiting for the first time, Josephs has a recommendation. “Smoked salmon and bagels to start with. Sit down in the cafe and eat some of the fabulous food on offer, washed down with our amazing hot chocolate, made with 70 per cent chocolate shavings, thick and with a long-lasting complex flavour. Pure luxury.”

There is no grand expansion plan for Panzer’s. No second site, no franchise, no reinvention. “If it remains relevant to the community, then there is a great chance it will continue to thrive as the local community store, where customers bring their stories and dogs and children and come for a natter with the staff, friends and family.”

Eighty years in, Panzer’s is more than just a deli. It is a ritual, a meeting place, a reminder of what London’s food scene once was and – if it can hold steady against the tide of change – what it can still be.