Gail’s, Costa and an M&S Food Hall – the true foodie signs your postcode is going up (or down)

The arrival of Gail’s in a London neighbourhood has been met with outrage from residents worried their independent local shops will close down, writes Hannah Twiggs. So what are the other tell-tale signs which show your postcode is in – or out?

Hundreds have signed a petition to banish the bougie bakery from Walthamstow (Gail’s Bakery/Wikimedia Commons)

In Walthamstow, the leafy enclave where babyccinos outnumber cocktails and prams are the unofficial mode of transport, the biggest drama used to be the waitlist for a pilates class.

But in the past few weeks, residents in this north London enclave have been under the spotlight for very different reasons.

First, there was the anti-racism march on a street that was allegedly on a far-right hit list to target for an anti-immigration protest. Thousands of locals emerged, more leaned out of their windows, and even the shops closed early in solidarity.

And then, a new flurry of outrage: a petition to halt the arrival of Gail’s bakery, that temple of artisanal flour and overpriced sourdough. You’d think Walthamstow Village, with its parade of wine bars and Victorian homes priced in the stratosphere, would welcome Gail’s with open arms. But no, it turns out the locals are just as passionate about fighting gentrification as they are racism.

With hundreds of signatures, the petition declares: “Gail’s, although respected for their quality, brings a risk of overshadowing our much-loved local stores … threatening their very existence and dismantling the character and diversity crucial to Walthamstow’s charm.”

So there you have it. Gail’s, once just another purveyor of pricey pastries, is now the unwitting face of unwanted gentrification. The sign your neighbourhood has “arrived”, but also that your neighbourhood might be less cutting-edge cool and more… well, basic.

To help you navigate this slippery slope of the ins and outs and ups and downs of good versus bad gentrification, here’s our guide to decoding the gastro signs lurking on your doorstep.

The caffeine giants have been dethroned by more bespoke coffee dealers (Getty)

From flat whites to flatlining: the decline of Costa and Pret

Remember the days when a Pret or Costa on your high street was a sign your postcode was climbing the property ladder? Yeah, those days are gone. These caffeine giants have been dethroned by more bespoke caffeine dealers. If your neighbourhood is still clinging onto its Costa like a faded relic, it’s a sure sign you’ve passed the peak. If it’s just moved in, then you’re not living in the cool, cosmopolitan district you once imagined – you’re in a place where the coffee might as well be served with a side of nostalgia and regret.

Sourdough with a side of smug: an indie bakery out-hips Gail’s

If your area is blessed with an independent artisanal bakery, rejoice! You’re in a neighbourhood where the croissants are flakier and the bread is kneaded with love, organic flour and just a hint of pretension. You’re probably paying over £6 for a loaf, but for the unprocessed joy of it, it’s worth it. Your Sunday morning haul will cost more than a gym membership, but you’re okay with that because, you know, nothing screams health like a spelt and beetroot multi-seeded Chinese tinned loaf. That’s what you’re telling yourself anyway and why you think Gail’s chain is, well, just a little bit too suburban for your (very) expensive tastes.

No spring chicken: Nando’s was once the darling of peri-peri enthusiasts (AFP/Getty)

Peri-peri crisis: Nando’s – the hot sauce has cooled

Nando’s, once the darling of peri-peri enthusiasts and a symbol of your area’s rise to mid-tier culinary fame, has now become as commonplace as a seagull in Margate. It was cool for a while, but now? It’s a sign that your neighbourhood has hit peak saturation of mediocre chain dining options – a position once occupied by Pizza Express. Sure, it’s still reliable for a quick bite, but if your local high street is relying on Nando’s to provide the excitement, it’s time to admit you’re no longer in the cool part of town. The spice level may be hot, but the vibes are lukewarm at best.

Food Truck Friday: Gourmet on wheels or desperation on the road?

Food Truck Friday is the double-edged sword of neighbourhood indicators. On one hand, it might mean you’re living in a hipster paradise where artisanal tacos and gourmet burgers are served out of retrofitted vans to a crowd that knows their kombucha from their kimchi. On the other hand, it could suggest you live in a culinary desert where the only dining options are four wheels and a prayer. The key is in the details: if the trucks are serving up fusion cuisine with unpronounceable ingredients, you’re on the up; if it’s just serving up a chippy tea, maybe it’s time to move on.

Chips-pizza-Indian: the three-headed monster of culinary confusion

If your local high street boasts a ChipsPizzaIndian, it’s time to face facts: your neighbourhood is not going to figure in the next up-and-coming postcode list any time soon. This culinary chimaera is the hallmark of a postcode that has settled for convenience over expertise. You’ll know you’re truly in trouble when the establishment offers a “chef’s special” that combines all three cuisines into one unholy dish. That’s not fusion, my friend, that’s confusion. Probably served up on a laminated menu.

A very posh butchers

A steak that costs more than your weekly rent is the undisputed heavyweight champion of gentrification signals. When your area can sustain a place that sells ethically sourced, grass-fed, triple-massaged beef at prices that would make a hedge fund manager blush, you know you’re living in a neighbourhood where people don’t even need to ask the price of things. The meat is treated with reverence, sausages have pedigrees, and the weekly special comes with a backstory. If you can’t afford to shop there, don’t worry – at least you can brag about living near it while relying on a weekly Morrisons delivery from out of ’code.

An even posher fishmongers-turned-after-hours-Oyster-bar

When your local fishmonger moonlights as an oyster bar you know that this is not just any neighbourhood; this is a place where your scallops come with a side of order of insta-fame. Here, the oysters are fresh, the clientele is in the know, and the only thing fishy is the fact that you’re somehow affording this lifestyle. So go ahead, order that ceviche, take a picture for the gram and bask in the knowledge that you’re living in a postcode that’s more upmarket than Mayfair.

The M&S Food Hall fall

Once the crown jewel of middle-class respectability, the M&S Food Hall has suddenly become, well a bit common. If your neighbourhood is still clinging to its M&S Food Hall, it’s a sign that what was once a symbol of quality and affluence has now settled into a state of suburban mediocrity. Sure, you can pick up some heritage tomatoes, but the glamour is gone, replaced by the creeping feeling that you’re shopping in a motorway service station or an airport rather than a foodie haven.

Napoli or bust: pizza putting your neighbourhood on the map

When once there was much excitement if a Pizza Express moved in, today, your neighbourhood isn’t worth its postcode unless it plays host to an authentic Italian pizzeria. If the dough is fermented for 48 hours, the mozzarella is flown in from Campania, and the chef talks about his pizza oven like it’s a member of the family, you’re in a place where house prices have probably just doubled. This is the real deal, where the pizza is Neapolitan, the wine is Tuscan, say benvenuto to a neighbourhood that has truly arrived.

The Ivy was once an elite culinary institution... (Getty)

Ivy league dropout: why your area’s glamour just took a hit

The Ivy: once a name whispered in the same breath as Hollywood A-listers and society darlings, now a chain so diluted it’s like the homoeopathic remedy of fine dining. If your neighbourhood has succumbed to the blandishments of the Ivy chain, it’s a sign you’re living somewhere that’s trying a bit too hard to be relevant. Think of it as the edible equivalent of living in Guildford: comfortable, respectable but uninspiring. And if you’ve got a Hotel Chocolat nearby, well, let’s just say your postcode is more provincial than it is prestigious.

A utensil shop

If your local high street sports an artisan knife shop, complete with leather aprons that cost more than a fine meal at the Newt, congratulations: you’ve reached the pinnacle of gentrification. This is a neighbourhood where even the kitchenware is curated, where people talk about carbon steel like it’s the latest fashion trend, and where a paring knife costs more than a weekend in Paris. It’s less about needing a new chef’s knife and more about needing everyone to know you bought it from the most exclusive place in town. The sharpest end of gentrification.