The Independent's journalism is supported by our readers. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn commission.
Cellar notes: A tale of claret and blues
Your support helps us to tell the story
From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.
At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.
The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.
Your support makes all the difference.Noble Rot is a compelling story written by the Brussels bureau chief for the Dow Jones Newswires, William Echikson, whose starting point is a love affair with France derived from a visit to Bordeaux as a 15-year-old, culminating in a taste of the rare elixir, Yquem: "in one glass, the magic of the Old World came alive," he writes. The title deals with the fact that, beneath the Aubusson carpet, something rotten lurks in the state of Bordeaux.
The magic rapidly wore off after Echikson spent six months getting his writing fingers dirty in 2001 in Bordeaux. His characterisation of Alexandre Lur Saluces of Château d'Yquem as an avaricious and petulant dracula earned him a writ suspending publication in Europe (but available on www.amazon.com).
While the revelations about Yquem are spellbinding, Echikson's main theme is the revolutionary influence on Bordeaux of the modern, so-called "garage" movement. In a narrative peppered with neat thumbnail sketches, Echikson hails Michel Rolland, the wine consultant extraordinaire of Bordeaux's Right Bank, as a hero flanked by a band of upstart new growers, riding to the rescue, US-cavalry style, to cure Bordeaux of its ills.
The story of the rise of the Right Bank arrivistes begins with Château Pétrus, whose champion, Robert Parker, is, ironically, derided by Christian Moueix, the owner of Pétrus. This is some compensation for Echikson's rose-tinted view of Parker and Rolland. Overall though, Echikson does a good job of unravelling the complexities of the world's greatest fine-wine region. Next up, Ewan McGregor as Rolland and Michael Douglas as Parker?
Join our commenting forum
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
Comments