Caught red-handed: Skye Gyngell can't keep away from the gentle flavour and texture of red peppers

Soft, sweet and tender, red peppers are perfect at this time of year. They are slightly indigestible raw, but lend themselves to gentle, slow cooking, which brings out the best in their flavour. Paired with olive oil, a little garlic and the more robust summer herbs, their true nature shines through. They taste to me so much of the Mediterranean and marry beautifully with aubergine and little black olives. I prefer them served at room temperature – like so many things at this time of year, their taste is more subtly highlighted. Look for peppers with an even colour, firm flesh and no bruising.

Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Nurseries, Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, tel: 020 8605 3627, www.petershamnurseries.com

Peppers piedmontese

Serves 4

4 ripe plum tomatoes
2 red peppers, sliced in half lengthwise, seeds removed
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and sliced
20 basil leaves
8 good-quality anchovies in oil
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Start by peeling the tomatoes of their skin. To do this, cut a cross shape at the base of each tomato, boil a pan of water, plunge in the tomatoes and remove as soon as the cross at the base has begun to curl back. This will take only seconds. Remove from the water using a slotted spoon. Place in a bowl and allow to cool.

Heat your oven to 180C/350F/Gas4. Once the tomatoes have cooled enough for you to handle, peel off their skin, slice in half and spoon out the pips. Chop the flesh into chunks and place in the cavity of the peppers. Now simply tuck in the slivers of garlic, the basil and the anchovies, distributing them evenly. Grind over a little black pepper and place in a baking tray flesh-side up. Place on the middle shelf of the oven and roast for 40 minutes.

The flesh of the pepper should be soft but not falling apart, steaming just slightly. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature, when the flavour of the peppers is at its very best. Before serving, drizzle over the olive oil and serve. I also like to crumble a little young soft goat's cheese over them.

Salad of chorizo, red peppers, lentils and goat's cheese

The oily, slightly spicy flavour of the chorizo works so well with the sweetness of roasted peppers. Goat's cheese adds a saltiness that rounds this salad off.

Serves 4

2 red peppers, sliced in half lengthwise, seeds removed
A small bunch of marjoram, leaves only
10 little ripe tomatoes
1 tbsp red-wine vinegar
150g/5oz little brown lentils (Umbrian or puy)
80ml/3fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
4 chorizo piccante, split in half lengthwise
20 or so black olives (Niçoise or Ligurian)
The juice of half a lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Rocket leaves (optional)
100g/31/2oz goat's cheese, crumbled

Heat oven to 180C/350F/Gas4. Cut the peppers into one-inch strips, place in a roasting pan and scatter with the salt marjoram, and tomatoes. Add the vinegar and cover tightly with foil. Put on the middle shelf of the oven and roast for 25 minutes, by which time the peppers should be soft but not falling apart. Remove from the oven, take off the foil and allow to cool.

While the peppers are cooking, rinse the lentils and place in a small saucepan with enough water to cover. Set on the stove on a medium heat and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the lentils are just soft – no more than 20 minutes. It is important not to overcook them, as you want a slight bite. Drain, season with a little salt and set aside.

Now place a pan over a warm heat. Add a very small amount of oil and when it is hot, put the chorizo in, skin-side down. Turn down the heat and cook for five minutes or until golden-brown, at which point turn them and cook for the same amount of time on the other side. While the chorizo is cooking, place the lentils, peppers and olives into a bowl. Dress with the remaining olive oil and lemon. Season prudently with salt and pepper and toss through the rocket if you are using. Divide among four plates and lay the warm chorizo on top. Scatter over the goat's cheese and serve while the chorizo is still warm. Good, crusty, peasant-style bead is the perfect accompaniment.

Pepperonata

I often eat this sweet, fresh dish on its own, but it is lovely with a simply roasted chicken, grilled fish or as part of an antipasti plate, with salami, prosciutto and roasted aubergines laced with olive oil, marjoram and mint.

Serves 6

3 red peppers
2 yellow peppers
60ml/21/2fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, peeled and sliced
3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 medium-sized bunch of marjoram or oregano
A splash of red-wine vinegar
20 little very ripe baby plum tomatoes
1 generous bunch of basil, leaves only
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Start by slicing the peppers in half, scooping out the seeds and slicing into one-inch strips lengthwise.

Now place a medium-sized heavy- based pan over a gentle heat. Add a tablespoon of the olive oil and allow to warm through. When the oil is warm but not hot, add the onions, a pinch of salt and sweat for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time.

Once the onions are soft and translucent, add the garlic and marjoram (or oregano, to your taste) and sweat for a further 10 minutes – the onions should not have browned at all. Add the peppers and vinegar and stir to combine.

Pierce the little tomatoes with a small knife and add to the pan, squeezing softly between your hands as you do so, to release a little of their juice. Place a lid on the pan and turn to the lowest heat. Cook until the peppers are soft and almost falling apart; this should take about 45 minutes. Drizzle over the rest of the olive oil, add the whole basil leaves and taste for seasoning. It will need salt and pepper.

Serve either warm or, as is my favourite, at room temperature.