Bites: Islands

Assaggi, 39 Chepstow Place, London W2 (0171-792 5501). Mon-Sat lunch and dinner . The bare tables in this boldly coloured room above a pub are highly sought after for Nino Sassu's cooking. From the carte da musica (paper-thin crispbread) onwards, he gives away his Sardinian origins by sourcing several key ingredients from the island. Bottarga (grey mullet roe) is another speciality, possibly paired with fennel. Prices are high: at least £30 if you have a main course. House wine, for £10.95 a bottle, is Sardinian.

Assaggi, 39 Chepstow Place, London W2 (0171-792 5501). Mon-Sat lunch and dinner . The bare tables in this boldly coloured room above a pub are highly sought after for Nino Sassu's cooking. From the carte da musica (paper-thin crispbread) onwards, he gives away his Sardinian origins by sourcing several key ingredients from the island. Bottarga (grey mullet roe) is another speciality, possibly paired with fennel. Prices are high: at least £30 if you have a main course. House wine, for £10.95 a bottle, is Sardinian.