Bites: Cosy Up
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Kinghams, Gomshall Lane, Shere, Surrey (01483 202168). Tue-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch. Restaurant in a 17th-century building that's twee-free despite beams. Cooking brings modern vigour to traditional English combinations: scallops in watercress pesto with saffron pasta ribbons, or red onion and apple tart with roast pigeon and walnut salad for starters; more mainstream mains such as fillet steak or braised oxtail and horseradish cream. A la carte around £23 for three courses; midweek dinner is £13.95, weekday lunch pounds 11.95.
Maggie Jones's, 6 Old Court Place, Kensington Church Street, London W8 (0171-937 6462). Daily lunch and dinner. Although I couldn't swear it's the cosiest place to eat in London, cluttered with farmhouse-kitchen paraphenalia and dried flowers, it must come close. Hunker down in stripped- pine booths to avocado with prawns, or smoked mackerel with gooseberry mayonnaise; then rabbit and mustard casserole or shepherd's pie. £15 for lunch, £30 for dinner including house wine in a pay-for-what-you-drink magnum.
The Three Horseshoes, Shepton Mallett, Somerset (01749 850359). Daily lunch and dinner. It's a year since a couple from London's Lanesborough hotel took over this pub. There's a dining room with a wood-burning stove, pine tables and log fire in the bar. Lengthy blackboard choices range from Oriental duck with plum sauce to venison sausages with mash. Add on sticky toffee or bread-and-butter pudding, or a smart lemon tart and a meal's around £20 with drinks - real ale or wine.
The Village Restaurant, 16-18 Market Place, Ramsbottom, Greater Manchester (01706 825070). Wed-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch. Superb, increasingly Italian, but also locally sourced food such as organic trout from Cumbria and Morecambe Bay potted shrimps. The street-level deli closed in July and became an Italian enoteca with wines by the glass and simple rustic food. Upstairs, the restaurant meals, (Sunday lunch at 1pm and 3.30pm), consist of short selections - from £3.50 for soup to £12.50 for steak.
White Hart, Poole Street, Great Yeldham, Essex (01787 237250) Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch. A rambling Tudor building has a spacious oak-panelled dining room and bar that attract all ages for traditional, but not too formal, outings. Anything from sweet potato and coriander soup to turbot flavoured with coconut and lemon grass with noodle and chilli salad. From £3.25 for soup to £16.95 for fillet steak with mushrooms and truffle mash.
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