Chef A-Zhong on the rise of the dumpling, being a perfectionist, and fusing the old and the new

Chefs go through years of intense training to master the art of dim sum. Ahead of National Dim Sum Week, A-Zhong, head dim sum chef at London Chinatown’s Plum Valley, talks about bringing innovation to traditional dishes

The key to dim sum is its spirit of delicacy and sharing

How many years have you been working as a dim sum chef?

I have been a dim sum chef ever since I came to the UK 18 years ago. Thirteen of those have been in kitchens in Chinatown in London.

What made you become a dim sum chef?

Ever since I was a little kid I have been a foodie. After I came to the UK as a young man and needed a job I realised I could pick a job that incorporated my love for food. I am also a bit of a perfectionist so the skills needed suited me.

I love the fact every piece of dim sum has to be handmade fresh on the day, so every day there’s only a limited number of pieces that can be served

How much training was needed?

I started off as an apprentice in the kitchen and trained in all the basics before being promoted to a dim sum sous chef. Now I am allowed to lead dim sum making after spending another four years in the position.

Why did you chose dim sum, rather than roasting or wok cooking?

The key to dim sum is its spirit of delicacy and sharing. The portion should be just right so that everyone can have a taste of everything. As it’s traditionally served as a breakfast or lunch choice, it’s meant to be fresh and light, unlike roasting or wok, which involve a lot of oil and other heavy ingredients. Dim sum are much more difficult to make than quick woking. I love the fact every piece of dim sum has to be handmade fresh on the day, so every day there’s only a limited number of pieces that can be served.

Are there any negatives to your job?

The early mornings! Though you get used to them. My team of six must be in before 7am to prepare and make the many dim sum dishes ahead of service at 12pm. Dim sum is traditionally served from early morning to afternoon tea. In Chinatown, we start dim sum service at noon and the last basket will be steamed at 4.45pm. Once we have tidied up and prepared the smaller dumplings menu for the evening we can go home.

Despite the appetite for authentic Chinese dishes in London (and the rise in appreciation for dumplings especially) it can be hard to find and train chefs. I need a hardworking, meticulous team who take pride in each and every dish. Most chefs train on the job as there are no catering colleges pumping out highly skilled Chinese chefs, so we spend a lot of time training our chefs.

I spent two whole years just perfecting the skill of making har gau. Dim sum chefs are judged by the quality of this dumpling

How does Plum Valley’s dim sum differ from more classic dim sum restaurants?

My approach to dim sum is in line with the restaurant’s ambition – injecting creativity (in the use of different ingredients and taking inspiration from other cuisines) into the dim sum dishes while respecting the cultural roots of the cuisine. The core of the dishes must not be played around with too much.

I draw inspiration from everywhere. For example, after eating eel sushi at a Japanese restaurant I was inspired to create the first ever eel cheung fun (steamed rice noodles). Usually, cheung fun is filled with ingredients such as prawn, pork or vegetables. I wanted to try it with eel but knew I needed to add some texture into the dish so it wouldn’t be too one dimensional. Because of this, we deep fry the eel to add crunch before putting it in the rice noodles.

What ingredients do you incorporate into your dim sum dishes that are more unusual than regular dim sum?

We use all sorts of things. We recognise that palates are changing, for Chinese people and Westerners. Spice has become more popular, so we like adding spice to more traditional dishes. For example, we do a great turnip cake dish, which we cut up and stir fry with bean sprouts and XO sauce. We have just added a new siu mai to the menu, topped with a quail egg to add a level of richness and indulgence, but because we keep the dumplings small it works really well still as a perfect mouthful. Another popular dish is our spinach and scallop dumplings. They are delicious and also very nice looking – a lovely green.

What is the hardest dim sum dish to make and why?

Definitely har gau (also known as prawn bonnet), because of the pleats. The skin must be translucent and is very delicate to make. I spent two whole years just perfecting the skill of making har gau. Dim sum chefs are judged by the quality of this dumpling. It is very important to get right; the number of pleats must be exact, and the thinness of the skin translucent but not too thin that it breaks when steaming.

What is your favourite dim sum dish to make?

My favourite is Sichuanese-style spicy wonton. I am a big fan of spice when it is balanced and not overpowering. I enjoy the fact that so much flavour can come from such a tiny bite.

What is your favourite dish to eat?

If I’m completely honest, I spend so much time trying dishes each day (it’s important for quality control), as well as taste testing for new recipe ideas, that when it comes to my meal times I usually go for something different. Dim sum with my family is always special though.

Do you have any advice for chefs aspiring to be dim sum chefs?

Patience and perseverance. Unlike woking, dim sum is reserved for a slow person. You must spend time and effort learning the basics before you start experimenting with new recipes and flavours. Dim sum should evolve and that’s what makes it exciting, but it is important to respect the cultural roots of this cuisine.

A-Zhong is the head chef at Plum Valley (plumvalleyrestaurant.co.uk) and National Dim Sum Week in Chinatown runs from today until 7 July