The Wrong Coat? You’re bang on trend my friend

Forget the wrong trousers, this season you need the wrong coat to be truly fashionable. Fleur Britten brings us up to speed on the style mismatching that has become so very right for now...

Model on the runway at the Gucci Spring 2024 Ready To Wear Fashion Show on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (WWD via Getty)

It’s usually at this time of year that the major-league fashion designers gleefully rub their hands together in anticipation of the small fortunes we’re expected to drop in order to get our hands on the hallowed New Season’s Coat, and thereby ensure that we are – phew – on-trend. This winter, you’ll be delighted to hear, is set to be different, given that the style bible Vogue has declared “The Wrong Coat” to be the height of fashion.

The Wrong Coat look means, simply, that we can suspend our usual critique when in front of the mirror, because “wrong” – as in, “this doesn’t go with this” – is exactly the goal this season. It’s about ignoring your fashion instincts, which would normally say, for example, that a love-worn country gentleman’s jacket should never be worn over a chiffon pencil skirt and blouse – Prada, no less, decreed this very idea a key “lewk” on its latest catwalk.

Likewise, while previously it was absolutely not the done thing to wear a maxi trench coat with short-shorts (flasher vibes), Dries van Noten overturned this rule for its new collection. Heavy parkas teamed with delicate silk slip dresses? Bring it on, says Gucci. The sheerest organza dresses coupled with dense wool coats? Why ever not, says Altuzarra.