Ratched: How to recreate the gorgeous 1940s outfits in the Netflix series

Every outfit in Ryan Murphy’s new bloodthirsty Netflix drama is worth recreating in the modern era, writes Olivia Petter

(SAEED ADYANI/NETFLIX)

On Friday, a brand new shiny Ryan Murphy drama will drop on Netflix, bringing a menagerie of blood, glamour, and colour to our computer screens.

Ratched is the origin story of Nurse Ratched, the iconic character from Ken Kesey’s 1962 novel One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest.

Set in the 1940s, the series serves up a visual feast of retro ensembles. Think padded shoulders, A-line skirts, bardot necklines, and nurse uniforms that wouldn’t look out of place on a Celine runway - during Phoebe Philo’s rein, obviously.

It helps that the cast is just as glossy as the costumes they’re wearing. Sarah Paulson swans around in pleated two-pieces as Ratched while Sophie Okenedo ricochets between madness and sanity as a patient in silk blouses and pearls.

Then there’s Sharon Stone, who plays a scorned mother thirsty for revenge on the doctor who amputated her son’s limbs. Her prime accessory might be a pet monkey, but her look is no less accessible today, so long as you know where to source good faux fur and extravagant costume jewellery.

“Costumes are always extremely important in any show, but especially to a Ryan Murphy show,” explain costume designers Lou Eyrich and Rebecca Guzzi, who also worked with Murphy on American Horror Story.

For Ratched, the duo explain they were inspired by 1940s films and fashion magazines from the period. “We also looked at nursing school yearbooks, medical catalogs, newspaper clippings and pictorials on hospitals and treatments of the time for the look of the patients,” they add. 

“From the beginning, Ryan wanted this first season to not look anything like One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest.  So, there wasn't much that we drew on from the original film.”

To mark the show’s highly anticipated release, we’ve rounded up  some of the ways you can recreate its signature looks in 2020.

Betsy Bucket

Nurse Bucket is one of the hospital’s most formidable employees, so it’s only natural that her uniform be sharp, slick, and punchy, just like her character.

“Ryan purposefully wanted the nurses' dress uniforms to be a color other than white so that they stood apart from the ‘bleached and starched’ white uniforms of One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest,” explain Eyrich and Guzzi.  

“For the nurse uniforms, we ultimately selected a blue-green four-ply silk with custom dyed buttons and belt buckles to match. It took us and our large, talented team weeks to source and perfect the combinations of blue-green seen throughout all of the hospital staff uniforms.”     

While we’re not suggesting it’s time to deck yourself out in a 1940’s nurse’s uniform, there are ways to tap into Bucket’s signature look today.

Try taking your cues from her colour-blocking by pairing a high-neck turquoise blouse with a high-waisted bias skirt - we love this Victoria Beckham top with this satin Ghost skirt.

Given how empowered Bucket is on-screen, we suspect she’s the kind of woman who never leaves the house without matching luxury underwear. Get started with this lacy black bra from La Perla.

As for the shoes, let’s not forget that Bucket works in a hospital and needs to get around easily. So we’ve gone for this pair of beige block heels from Dune. Paired with a simple gold barrette, and you’ve got the perfect contemporary Bucket look.

Mildred Ratched

Ratched might exude a coldness in her personality, but her wardrobe evokes nothing but sprightliness and joy.

Take this yolk-yellow two piece that she wears with brown gloves and a matching hat. The precise and clean silhouette is classic for the era but can be easily recreated today, particularly considering how popular tailoring is on the runways.

“From our first fitting with Sarah, we discussed the idea that Mildred uses her clothing as a manipulation tactic,” say Eyrich and Guzzi. “Her clothing and outward presentation helps Mildred persuade, comfort and control others in an attempt to move closer to her personal goals.” 

The designers employed the use of tailored skirt suits throughout the season for Mildred in order to evoke confidence and intimidation, which matches her character. 

“This precision tailoring is also so entrenched in the design of clothing in the mid to late 1940s that it also helps immediately take the viewer into this world,” they add.

To recreate Mildred’s signature look, try this pleated lurex Joseph skirt, which goes perfectly with this double-breasted jacket from Sara Battaglia.

Keep the outfit casual with a pair of flat trainers, like these ones from Junya Watanabe,  a sprinkle of lightweight gold jewellery, and some statement shades.

It’s a look that Ratched herself would certainly be proud of.

Lenore Osgood

Lenore Osgood is not messing around, and neither is her wardrobe. 

The wealthy mother-of-one glides around her lavish home in an array of silk suits, fur coats, and bespoke couture gowns.

Her look might seem utterly unachievable today, and it is if you’re going to try and start looking for a monkey to wear as an accessory, but it can be quite easily replicated without the need for any furry animals.

We love this Shrimps faux fur jacket, which comes with fur cuffs and a collar and would sit perfectly well on top of these classic wide-leg trousers.

When worn with a gold Bella Freud jumper, razor-sharp stiletto heels and a pair of oversized sunglasses, you’re ready to go.

Charlotte Wells

Charlotte Wells is one of Ratched’s most intriguing characters, both mentally and satorially speaking.

She suffers from multiple personality disorder, which means she can suddenly switch between personas. In true Ryan Murphy style, Charlotte’s wardrobe can be just as eclectic as her behaviour.

Take this checked pleated skirt and silk blouse she wears to the hospital dance, an outfit she accessorises with silk white gloves and a string pearls. You can find something similar very easily by investing in this checked skirt from Paper London.

Pair the skirt with a ruffled off-the-shoulder top like this one from Francoise for an extra voluminous silhouette.

Then, top it all off with a simple gold chain necklace and a pair of statement flats, like these scarlet velvet mules from Chiara Biasi.