Peekaboo: Menswear embraces it's feminine side with lashings of lace

Holey moley! Men in lace is the surprise trend of the spring/summer 2016 shows. But it isn’t just a catwalk fantasy: it’s trickling onto sale rails and even the high street. Rebecca Gonsalves grapples with guys in guipure.

Burberry Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Collection - Look 37

If you remain unconvinced that today’s prevailing fixation with gender-fluidity in society at large has its roots firmly in the fashion world, then let Christopher Bailey convince you. The Burberry designer has long grappled with the inherent conservatism entrenched in the heritage brand while still providing fashionable updates each season – ones that will get the tills ringing for more than just those check-lined rain coats no less. As such, he’s something of a bellwether in British fashion - not least for the visibility of the brand with which he lets his ideas run wild. And wild he has been known to run, incorporating bold signatures including animal print, Hockney-esque primary colour palettes and even metallic finishes reminiscent of sweet wrappers. Style statements all.

But for spring/summer 2016 Bailey took things in an altogether more delicate direction, dubbing his collection ‘strait-laced’ he was in fact referring to the abundance of that particular fabric rather than anything more prim and proper. In fact, lace in menswear is altogether more progressive than priggish, thanks to the fact that it’s seen as primarily a fabric for the fairer sex.

That’s an old-fashioned attitude though, says Astrid Andersen, who has long been a proponent of the holey-stuff in collections that nevertheless virtually bristle with machismo. “Lace was originally created for men because embroidery was too feminine. I find it interesting how our society and roles of gender have changed this in time,” says the Danish designer. “I always want to portray a look that reflects both the masculine and sensitive side of my man and playing on feminine fabrics has always been in my design identity.” And when it comes to lace the designer knows her stuff, collaborating with Sophie Hallette, a French lace house established in 1887. “I work closely with Sophie Hallette to only use the most premium and precious materials,” says Andersen. “Lace is simply such a stunning material I love working with it. And every season I want to display this in new and interesting ways.”

Andersen says that the “emotional fragility” of the fabric chimes with the male muses she channels, but it’s admittedly not a fabric for everyone.

“It’s daring,” says Darren Skey, head of menswear at Harvey Nichols. “Lace looked incredible on the catwalk, especially at Gucci where the bold colours and applique floral embellishments showcased the craftsmanship in the collection. But it may struggle to translate into commercial sales.” And he should know about such matters: the London department store last week launched its new menswear department after nine months of refurbishment, proof positive of how important the male market is today.

“Show pieces can be tricky to work into your everyday wardrobe,” says Skey. “The key is to choose one statement item and ensure the rest of your look is pared back to compensate. When styling a lace shirt, I’d layer it with a plain T-shirt or vest. An easier way to buy into the look is through sheer panelling and layering – a basic T-shirt with semi sheer details will look great with a pair of jeans for a daytime look.”