Mixing the new and the old at Milan fashion week

(AFP PHOTO / Christophe Simon)

Milan's designers reverted to their signature looks and traditional craftmanship this season, mixing and patchworking materials for an updated -- and arguably less costly -- look.

Milan's designers reverted to their signature looks and traditional craftmanship this season, mixing and patchworking materials for an updated - and arguably less costly - look.

Dolce & Gabbana showed videos of the crafty process behind their creations during their show, highlighting the time and expertise going into each look, while labels such as Gucci and Prada went for retro design, revisiting their respective most successful silhouettes, with more than one spectator being reminded of the TV show Mad Men's styling at the latter's show.

The Prada collection was not only unusual because of its 'sexy secretary' feel but also because of its use of relatively curvy models including Victoria's Secret stars Doutzen Kroes and Alessandra Ambrosio. It is interesting how male models are becoming more manly and female models are becoming more womanly again, slowly moving body image away from the androgynous silhouette dominant in recent years.

Nevertheless, men's wear is impacting on women's wear, with labels such as Jil Sander presenting looks inspired by men's tailoring as already seen in New York and London.

Another big trend for fall is a new skirt length: the mini doesn't seem as dominant this season, while brands such as Max Mara (or previously Marc Jacobs in New York) kept their skirts and dresses at ankle- and knee-length.

And something else will be knee-length next fall: the season's must-have accessories are apparently knee-high socks, as seen at Marni or Prada.

Leather will still be big come fall, with even the little black dress being updated with the material. It was also mixed with all sorts of other fabrics such as wool for coats and jackets, part of a general patchwork trend that might be due to keeping production costs low.