angel or devil

Bored with the fresh and wholesome look? Then turn the page to get in t ouch with your dark side. Styling by Sophia Neophitou. Photographs by Christoph Sillem

There are few women who change their make-up as often as their wardrobes. Once you've found the lipstick to suit your skin tone, you usually stick with it until that particular colour is, annoyingly, discontinued. But face paint dates as quickly as fashion. Bright red lips and blue mascara for ever belong to the Eighties; pancake foundation and pearly lips are pure Seventies. We will look back on the Nineties as the decade make-up forgot. High-gloss products have been replaced by the ultimate low-tech shine - Vaseline. The American make-up artist Bobbi Brown, one of the decade's most influential cosmetics gurus, has made a warm glow and a hint of colour her trademark. Her Essentials range is designed not to add colour but to enhance the natural appearance of the skin.

The skill now when applying slap is to make it look as natural as possible. A couple of pots of lip tint and creamy blush from the Body Shop, costing less than most beauty houses charge for a lip liner, will add a cherubic bloom to an otherwise peachy complexion. For theatrical types who can't help but carry around make-up bags bulging with liners, shadows and mascara wands, natural can sometimes spell boring. The secret is to build up the eyes with layer upon layer of carbon and silver, but to leave the lips matt, pale and devilishly interesting. Tamsin Blanchard

Dark Eyes

Soft-finish make-up, pounds 16, and blended face powder, pounds 16.50, both by Clinique, available from major department stores (enquiries, 0171-409 6951); electra silver, pounds 8, and carbon black eye shadow, pounds 10, from MAC, 109 King's Road, London SW3 (enquiries and mail order, 0171-349 0601); beige matt variations lipstick, pounds 14, by Shiseido, from major department stores (enquiries, 0171-792 1575). Beige silk devore top by Martine Sitbon, pounds 380, from Browns, 23-27 South Molton Street, London W1; Pellicano, 63 South Molton Street, London W1; Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge, London SW1

Hair Nicolas Jurnjack

Make-up Pascale Guichard at Marie France

Models Anys at Marylin, Athena at Ford