Michael Kors at 60: The American designer behind one of the most popular handbags of all time

‘If there was a president of the United States for Fashion, it would be Michael’

Over the years, the fashion items that have helped propel a person to trendsetter status have been in a constant state of flux. In the Roaring Twenties, marabou feathers came to represent the zenith of sartorial superiority, while the go-go boots of the Swinging Sixties were the holy grail of the fashionable. But ever since the Noughties, the one piece coveted by those in fashion circles has remained relatively unchanged: the illustrious It bag.

From Fendi’s Baguette to Hermes’s Birkin and Gucci’s Dionysus, designer carryalls have long been defined by their exclusivity, eye-watering price tags and chic details. And while there are seemingly endless options for anyone seeking to indulge in the whimsical excess of a designer handbag, the success of elaborate arm candy sits firmly in the grasp of one man: Michael Kors.

Arguably one of the most well-known American designers of this century, this week Kors celebrates his 60th birthday at the helm of an expansive fashion empire. One which has, in part, become defined by the stratospheric popularity of the New Yorker’s handbags.

Chances are, if you look around any office, restaurant or tube carriage, you’ll spot several of Kors’ totes swinging from the arms of everyday women. Be it the Mercer Tote, Whitney Shoulder Bag or Cece Crossbody, each of the designer’s bags are instantly recognisable thanks to their immediate elegance and, of course, the designer’s name spelt out in shiny gold capitals for all to see.

Nowhere does the term “investment piece” ring more true than when it comes to a designer handbag. After all, a well-chosen carryall really can last you a lifetime. But, the question remains, which one to choose?

According to fashion stylist Rebecca Lockwood, one of best Kors bags to purchase is the Selma Medium Saffiano Satchel. “This bag is perfect for the office due to its structured body and chic simple design,” Lockwood says. “It’s an extremely popular design.”

However, she adds that her personal favourite can be found in the brand’s latest collection: the Nouveau Hamilton Pebbled Leather Satchel in Terracotta.

“Available in a rich orange shade, it’s the perfect statement piece for your wardrobe,” Lockwood adds. “I especially love the heavy gold-tone hardware. The current campaign features Bella Hadid holding this bag styled with a studded leather jacket, leopard heels and vintage wash mom jeans. Exactly how I would wear this myself.”

So, what exactly is it that makes the brand’s bags so popular?

You see, the Michael Kors brand is unusual in the world of luxury in that it strives to be democratic. While many designer handbags come with a four-figure price tag, Kors’ can be obtained quite easily. The bestselling Medium Selma bag sells for just £345, while the Maddie Tote can be purchased on the brand’s website right now for as little as £108.

Kors recognises that there is money to be made in the mid-market, with a large presence in shopping centres in America and Europe. But it hasn’t come easy. As Rebecca Arnold, senior lecturer in the history of dress and textiles at The Courtauld Institute of Art, points out, Kors has had to work hard to ensure his success in the affordable market doesn’t devalue his brand.

Striking a balance: Michael Kors

“Michael Kors has been adept at translating the spirit of American fashion – easy to wear, simple lines, coordinated separates – into both luxury and mass market lines,” Arnold says. “This prestige may have elevated his designs and brand identity, but the ubiquity of his label on accessories may have undermined this gloss.

“His bags can be spotted globally – carried by women on bus and tube trains. On the one hand this is the logical outcome of accessible luxury, on the other, can the brand’s allure be maintained at any price point if his name is seen everywhere?”

To ensure his brand remains in vogue, Kors relies on an army of high-profile names to bolster the label’s glamorous reputation through celebrity endorsements and canny advertising.

Over the years, the designer’s handbags have been a hit with a number of celebrities, including Kate Hudson, Dakota Johnson, Taylor Swift and Gigi Hadid. Most recently, Kendall Jenner wore her Kors Gracie bag to a Yeezy show, while Amal Clooney has been known to favour the brand’s Bancroft style.

The success of the Michael Kors brand proves that high-end fashion brands can make luxury affordable. Currently, the Michael Kors brand has 870 stores globally, with flagships in many of the world’s most sophisticated cities, including New York, London, Paris and Milan.

The designer has also been the recipient of numerous industry awards, including The Council of Fashion Designers of America Womenswear Designer of the Year in 1999 and Menswear Designer of the Year in 2003.

And, while images of stylish women are undoubtedly key to the label’s appeal, it seems the brand’s popularity is down, in part, to Kors’ personality with celebrity stylist Alex Longmore insisting he is “the nicest man in fashion”.

“I have had the honour of meeting him many times and he is consistently warm with a brilliant sense of humour, seriously talented and very much the real deal,” Longmore says. “He knows exactly who his client is, designs specifically for them and is the most talented designer of a generation. He dresses real women, he celebrates the female form and he makes dressing easy, fun and practical.

“He is the power house of US fashion. If there was a president of the United States for Fashion, it would be Michael.”

With his winning charm, it is clear that the 60-year-old is helping to chisel away the reputation many designers, and the fashion industry as a whole, has developed over the years for being stone-hearted.

Kors is well known in the industry for giving back. For more than 25 years he has been a passionate supporter of God’s Love We Deliver, a New York-based non-profit organisation that cooks and delivers nutritious meals to people living with serious illnesses in and around New York City.

And, as the Michael Kors brand has expanded globally, so has its philanthropic efforts. In 2013, the designer launched the “Watch Hunger Stop” campaign, partnering with the United Nations World Food Programme (WFP) to help fight world hunger.

To date, Kors has helped WFP deliver over 15 million meals to hungry children. In 2015 the designer was named global ambassador against hunger for the WFP.

While the designer has become a household name through his fashion label that draws on the aesthetics of the all-American jet-set lifestyle, every year brings new accolades, both professional and personal.

A shining light in the face of sartorial elitism, Kors proves that nice guys don’t always finish last.