The French fashion brand asking us to ditch our knickers

As the UK anticipates a summer of freedom, Olivia Petter explores how this has paved the way for an independent French label whose designs require the wearer to ditch their undergarments

(Marcia)

We all wear underwear. And yet, we often go to great lengths to hide that fact. There are strapless bras, nude lingerie sets, and laser-cut knickers that promise no VPL (visible panty line). Perhaps it was only a matter of time until people started abandoning underwear altogether.

At least, that’s the thinking Parisian boutique brand Marcia, whose cut-out garments are designed to be worn with nothing underneath.

Founded in 2018 by former ballet dancer and model Emma Reynaud, Marcia is quickly becoming a cult brand thanks to its risque designs, in particular the TchikiBoum tube dress, which is held together down the sides by a series of delicate buttons, spaced far away enough to expose quite almost half the body.

Add to this a sustainable goal to use recycled fabric and a perennially sought-after French “cool girl” aesthetic, and you have a recipe for sartorial success.

“The collections are primarily inspired by the French music scene of the 1980s and 1990s,” says Reynaud, adding that the name “Marcia” comes from the 1980’s song “Marcia Baila” by Les Ritas Mitsuko: a jangly party tune that captures the sensual flamboyance that defined Reynaud’s designs.

In addition to the TchikiBoum dresses, which now come in an array of shapes, colours and prints (including polka dot), other underwear-free designs come in the shape of the Heartbreaker Pants, which feature lace-up cut-outs on either side. For those who also favour a bra-less look, there’s the Heartbreaker Corset, which is laced on either side.

Slipping into a garment without underwear is a daunting prospect - one I haven’t yet struck up the courage to try. The polka dot TchikiBoum tube dress is still sitting pretty in at the back of my wardrobe. And while I have tried it on once (and felt reassured when I sat down and the buttons stayed done up), I’m still waiting for an appropriate occasion to go commando.

But while exposing half of our naked bodies might feel like a liberty only afforded to those with “perfect” slim figures (as most of of Marcia’s models are) Reynaud says her styles are designed to celebrate femininity and champion comfort and freedom. This comes, in part, from the fact that all of Reynaud’s clothes are made from stretchy fabrics designed to flatter the female body, so long as you haven’t had a big dinner.

“I always attach great importance to the way I can adapt my designs to all bodies,” says Reynaud. “That’s why I chose a stretchy material that hugs and shapes the body.” When designing her clothes, Reynaud is careful to always ask women of all body shapes to try her pieces. “In this way, I adapt my designs so that it complements all body types.”

(Marcia)

Marcia’s sustainable conscience manifests through the use of Econyl, a regenerated nylon made from ocean and landfill waste. More than 80 per cent of Reynaud’s designs are made from it.

While an increasing awareness of the carbon footprint of fast fashion companies might have contributed to Marcia’s steady rise in recent years - alongside the fact that it has been endorsed by everyone from Alexa Chung to Camille Charrière - there has been a huge uptick during the pandemic.

“I think that after such a difficult year, people may be a little more daring with their outfit choices,” says Reynaud.  “Women are looking for a way to feel free in their clothes and reveal their sensuality while being comfortable.

“After a year in loungewear, you don’t necessarily want to be in a corset to feel gorgeous, but you want to feel the same way while keeping the freedom of movement you’re used to having. These are clothes make women feel liberated.”

Reynaud didn’t set out to design underwear-free dresses initially. “But then as I kept designing, it became obvious very quickly that’s what I wanted to do,” she says. “It was in line with my objective to liberate women and make them feel powerful. I have always considered that clothing is a way of expressing one’s personality and self, so subconsciously I wanted to create sexy clothes allowing women to feel strong in them.”

The spirit of Reynaud’s clothes are certainly set to reflect the general mood this summer as England prepares for all lockdown restrictions to life on 21 June. Cue talk of “lockdown revenge looks” and “out out outfits” across social media as people ready themselves for a season of unadulterated freedom and hedonism.

As for those who have reservations about ditching their undergarments, Reynaud understands. “I can relate to women who might be reluctant,” she says. “At first, it was a bit of a challenge to go out without panties. But I can guarantee that once you’ve done it is not as scary as you expected.”

You could also always try pairing the garments with discreet underwear, she adds. “The dresses are also so beautiful worn over flowing trousers or bike shorts.”

If all else fails, Reynaud is currently developing underwear with thin chains on both sides, designed to make a subtle statement underneath the cut-out clothes. As they say: “If you’ve got it, flaunt it.”