Ahluwalia questions the concept of ‘home’ in poignant London Fashion Week show
The London-based designer explored her blended heritage through beads and bold knits.
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Kelly Rissman
US News Reporter
Priya Ahluwalia’s latest runway show knitted together homely British comforts with the rich tapestry of her Indian and Nigerian heritage.
Ahluwalia is an independent designer known for her patchwork techniques, transforming deadstock denim into fresh fashion.
Sustainability is central to the designer’s mission, which has won her the Leader of Change gong at the Fashion Awards three years in a row.
Her spring/summer 2025 show was entitled ‘Home Sweet Home’, inspired by a trip Ahluwalia took to Jamaica over Christmas. Home is both a physical and emotional concept for the designer, and the collection took inspiration from her Nigerian-Indian roots.
“It’s a very sentimental collection and it’s very important to me,” Ahluwalia told PA Media. “I’m really excited for people to see our elevation of eveningwear, we’ve got some amazing pieces that are new territory for us.”
Through a palette of burnt umbers, greens and ultramarine blues, Ahluwalia mirrored the eclectic colours of her dual heritage, while weaving in elements of her upbringing in England.
Watching on in trepidation was Ahluwalia’s mother, who prefers not to give her name. She told PA Media before the runway began: “I never see anything before the show – even backstage I walk past the clothes and don’t look at them – so I’m excited to see how she’d adapted this personal concept. I’m incredibly proud of her.”
A leaf motif was printed onto knee-high boots and skintight dresses, which came from the wallpaper in Ahluwalia’s grandparents’ first English home.
Patterns taken from rugs in the designer’s childhood home were also emblazoned onto pieces throughout the collection.
While literal references were employed, Ahluwalia also incorporated more conceptual homely motifs – such as deconstructed and contorted fabrics.
In two of the women’s dresses, the fabric was stretched, pulled and tied in knots. According to Ahulwalia, this was a reference to her grandmother’s experience of still feeling an emotional pull back to her home in India, no matter how long she’s lived in the UK.
The abundance of layering was not only clear in Ahluwalia’s message, but on the runway adorned with several kilim rugs, which some models found difficult to navigate.
Ahluwalia also introduced some glamorous evening ensembles, which haven’t really been seen in the designer’s previous collections.
The garments were adorned with beaded vests and matching wigs constructed entirely from chunky multicoloured beads, which rustled noisily as models took to the runway.
“In Nigerian homes it’s very common to have beaded curtains through the entryways,” explained Ahluwalia design intern Arielle Uno Ekwang.
“It’s incredible to see how Priya has brought that in as a design detail, not only in the vests and wigs – but also in the embellishments on trousers and skirts.”
Jewels and beads scattered the runway beyond the ensembles, as Ahluwalia collaborated with the Danish jewellery brand, Pandora, for the collection.
Celebrities including model Leomie Anderson, Bridgerton star Charithra Chandran and musician Ghetts have all worn Ahluwalia’s designs in the past, and this season there was a familiar face on the runway, too – British rapper Wretch 32 walked the show in a sharply tailored contrast suit coat and trousers.
The make-up looks were also inspired by Ahluwalia’s Nigerian and Indian roots.
“I really wanted to think about the people that actually live in Priya’s home countries – and what they actually look like,” said MAC’s key make-up artist, Mata Marielle.
“Those countries can get incredibly hot, so ‘sun-kissed’ was the first thing that came to mind.
“We gave the models a dewy tan [through MAC’s luminous lift concealer], the girls a warm outlined lip mimicking a sultry sunset, and added plenty of bronzer and blush to all models, to imbue a homely warmth.”