Women's sportswear: From tackling a marathon to a jog in the park, the right kit can help
Lycra was banished after the eighties, but it is back with vengeance
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Kelly Rissman
US News Reporter
After the Eighties overload of leotards, leggings and leg-warmers, Lycra was banished to sartorial Siberia, but now it has snapped back in to style with a vengeance. In part this is due to the influence of the athletic aesthetic on the catwalks, a proliferation of designer sportswear collaborations and a rise of offerings from high-street brands. But – and perhaps more meaningfully – this time it is all backed up by a shift in thinking that shows strength and sportiness aren’t just for men.
“Over the past year we have seen an increase in customers’ interest and awareness of sports, well-being and lifestyle,” explains Hannah Rickets, assistant buyer for John Lewis’s sportswear. “We feel the 2012 Olympics legacy is still resonating with our customers – sporting events really motivate them.” The recent Boat Race saw an increase in sales of rowing machines, reports Rickets, who is sure that the upcoming London Marathon will provide the same boost for running gear. Adrian Leek, general manager of running for Adidas, agrees. “Thanks to social media, seeing other people running has become much more accessible and inspiring. Just as in other sports, when great things happen it sparks energy within you to get out and participate.”
That idea of motivation is one of the cornerstones of the recent This Girl Can campaign from Sport England, which encourages women to get active without worrying what they look like while doing so. And of course, that’s a worthy sentiment – but the power of looking good to feel good shouldn’t be discounted. “I think we all wear kit for different reasons,” says Miette Johnson, art director for Elle UK, who first took up running in January 2012 when the magazine staff decided to start a club. Since then, she’s graduated through longer distances to complete marathons, most recently the Paris race earlier this month.
“The way you feel is incredibly important,” says Johnson, “especially for running on the street. You’re putting yourself out there and you’re on display to the world doing something you’re not necessarily comfortable with. It makes a big difference if you feel self-conscious about the way you look or are distracted by what you’re wearing.”
When choosing running gear, performance is key, especially for a race, but that doesn’t mean Johnson wants to sacrifice style completely. “I think the days of everything just being pink and purple are over – there’s some really cool-looking kit that is sleek and performs well. High-street brands are really responding to that need.”
The psychology supports them, apparently. Recent research shows the impact that the right kit can have on a person’s motivation comes from more than just how it responds to the physical needs of the sport. In 2012, Hajo Adam and Adam Galinsky of Northwestern University published their theory of “enclothed cognition”, which recognised that the symbolic meaning of clothing is independent from the physical experience of wearing them, but both affect the wearer psychologically. Bright colours have long been seen as uplifting, and yet a 1988 study found that professional sports teams wearing black uniforms were more aggressive than those wearing non-black. It’s interesting to note that most men’s fitness gear is available in dark or muted colours, while women-only options are neon or pastels. While some women might be motivated by light, bright kit, they’re increasingly able to opt for sleeker styles.
The change couldn’t have come soon enough for Lucy Dunn, associate editor of Grazia magazine, who is preparing to race this Sunday. “Running kit has improved immeasurably over the past few years; you’ve got newer brands like Sweaty Betty and Lululemon shaking up the market and creating some really cool pieces. When I started running in 2012, there was a choice between quite masculine pieces that weren’t very nice or something really expensive. At the beginning I used to think it didn’t matter and wouldn’t spend much money on my gear, but actually it does – you want to feel nice and know that you look good and feel comfortable. One of the best things about running is that you don’t have to pack a bag, you can just roll out of bed and you’re out there and it’s free.”
Perhaps the convenience of running has helped it become one of the most popular sports for women – ultimately all you need to hit the ground running is the right pair of shoes (determined by gait analysis rather than the latest technical development, colour or brand allegiance) and a supportive sports bra. Nonetheless, technical fabrics have been developed to respond to the needs that arise from a good workout – and once you start to sweat, a lightweight, moisture-wicking top with vents in all the right places will feel less burdensome than an old, oversized cotton T-shirt. “High-quality socks are important too,” says Rickets, “to reduce blisters and help with blood flow during those tough miles.” And when your goal is to run over 26 miles, it’s amazing what a difference that will make.
“At Nike we listen to the needs of runners at all levels – from the elite to everyday,” says Ailsa Gilroy, vice-president of Nike’s global running section. “The goal is products that include only what’s necessary and nothing more.”
The best advice, it seems, is to choose the gear that works for you, whatever that might be. “I like to dress in one colour,” says Dunn. “That way you feel smart and put together even though inside you’re feeling anything but.”
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