Why Cashmere will always be a winter favourite

As England approaches the halfway mark of its second lockdown of the year, Olivia Petter makes a case for cashmere

(Bella Freud)

Few fabrics capture the spirit of winter quite like cashmere. Soft and soothing, it’s the sartorial antidote we all need as England endures its second lockdown of the year. It’s no surprise, then, that online searches for “cashmere” have increased by 47 per cent in recent weeks, according to global fashion search platform Lyst.

Cashmere has always been popular at this time of year. But it has evolved immeasurably. What was once a fabric synonymous with just scarves and stuffy polonecks has become a bona fide trend in its own right, spanning everything from gloves and tracksuits to socks and bras. Consider Katie Holmes’ now infamous cashmere bralette-and-cardigan Khaite look in 2019. The American actor’s barely-buttoned taxi-hailing outfit was a sensation, one that cemented cashmere’s everlasting mastery.

This winter, shoppers are looking to get their cashmere fix from a wide-range of sources. Lyst reports that page views for “cashmere lounge pants” have risen by 28 per cent week-on-week since the second lockdown began, while searches for “cashmere bralette” have surged by 71 per cent since October, a remarkable feat considering the only place you can wear such an item, and show if off, is at home. We might not have anywhere to go, but that isn’t stopping us from bringing a piece of luxury into our living rooms.

But in an age of increasing awareness of the damaging impact of fashion on the environment, where does cashmere sit in the sustainability stakes?  As a natural fabric, cashmere is significantly more environmentally friendly than synthetic ones and is biodegradable. It’s also long-lasting, meaning it will stand the test of time in your wardrobe (unless you have moths).

That said, there are still concerns regarding the environmental impact of cashmere production, given that it is made from the undercoat of cashmere goats. It can take four goats to produce enough hair to make one cashmere jumper, which explains why it is traditionally so expensive. However, many fast fashion companies have found cheaper ways of producing the fabric. They usually use shorter hairs from the goat’s undercoat, while expensive brands use the longest hairs, making it more widely accessible and adding to its carbon footprint given that these pieces won’t last as long.

Hence why many luxury fashion brands, such as Stella McCartney, have started producing cashmere in more ethical and sustainable ways.  Take upmarket high street label COS, which just launched a recycled cashmere collection made from farms where goats are treated responsibly, the environment is protected and the social, ecological, and economic living conditions of farmers and their families are respected.

The collection is comprised of classic cashmere staples - think multi-coloured jumpers, hooded sweatshirts, and scarves - alongside standout loungewear pieces that would be ideal for spending a lockdown weekend in. The range was created using The Good Cashmere Standard yarns, which focuses on the production of cashmere that is 100 per cent traceable to inner Mongolia, China.

Another luxury label championing sustainable cashmere is Burberry. The British heritage brand is famed for its iconic checked scarf, and last month, it released a series of videos and images offering consumers a behind-the-scenes look at how it’s made as a way of driving positive change into the cashmere industry.

“To create the cashmere scarf takes over 30 different steps,” the brand states. The cashmere is woven on traditional looms, washed in local spring water and carefully brushed for a super-soft finish. Burberry has also partnered with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance as they work to restore grasslands and support a decent living for cashmere goat herders.

For those who want to recreate Holmes’ cashmere look (and can’t afford to spend £450 on that Khaite bra - neither can we), try this upcycled cashmere merino bralette from Etsy, which, at £70, still isn’t cheap, but will certainly pay for itself in terms of how good it will feel.

The London Cashmere Company offers a wide-range of ethically produced loungewear, too, from socks and beanies to sweaters and tracksuit bottoms. We love this lightweight hooded cashmere jumper (bonus: it’s machine washable) and this star-patterned co-ord.

If you do have the means to really splash out on cashmere, though, look no further than Bella Freud. The British brand is renowned for its retro slogan jumpers that have been worn countless times by the likes of Kate Moss, Alexa Chung and Miranda Kerr.

This season, its cashmere offerings come in the form of a grey crewneck sweatshirt with the words “New Romantic” emblazoned across it in pink and a white rollneck adorned with the brand’s trademark phrase: “Ginsberg is God” in reference to the American Beatnik poet Allen Ginsburg. But if it’s more traditional lockdown garb you’re after, look to the brand’s cashmere tracksuits that come in an array of colours and designs. We love this blue sequin set.

It might not be the most affordable of treats, but there's no denying cashmere's universal appeal, particularly when we're all spending our days and evenings at home for at least another few weeks. Whether it's a sweatshirt, a pair of socks, or perhaps a bralette, cashmere is always an investment, one that will last much longer than something purchased from a fast fashion brand. And it's one worth making - feeling cashmere's softness on your skin will bring a much-needed dose of joy to these dark winter days.