Fashion: skin up

Forget your old gran's fleecy slippers. This is sheepskin as you've never seen it. In a word, sexy. Styling by Sophia Neophitou. Photographs by Mark Alesky

Cream sheepskin tank with pistachio embroidery, to order, by Antonio Berardi, from A La Mode, 36 Hans Crescent, London SW1, enquiries 0171-584 2133; cream sheepskin coat, over shoulders, pounds 750, by Owen Gaster, from Pellicano, 63 South Molton Street, London W1, enquiries 0171-629 2205

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efore we go any further on the subject, there is one thing everyone should know about sheepskin (or shearling, as it is called in fashion circles): it is a natural by-product of the food chain. That is, sheepskin is politically correct, in the same category as wearing leather, but a world apart from wearing fur. Phew. No guilt pangs there, then. Which is good news for anyone who has ever desired a cottonwool-soft, cosy-as-a-blanket jacket or coat to see them through the cold and dark winter months.

Also good news is the fact that several fashion designers are having fun with sheepskin: curling it like a shaggy perm, flattening it into silky strands, painting on it, embroidering it, burning it, and even turning the fluffy stuff into yeti boots (thanks, Mr Blahnik).

Owen Gaster treats sheepskin as he would a tailoring fabric by creating slimline jackets and coats which fit in with his collection, rather than items to be worn over his clothes. "For winter, I did short tailored jackets, and mid-thigh-length coats in white, toffee and forest green - very luxurious, and very elegant," says the designer. Very funky, is more to the point, especially when some of the wool is dyed in a bright, contrasting colour to the skin. But Gaster is not a fly-by-night sheepskin user, it has been a constant in his collections and is extremely popular with his customers.

The main reason sheepskin is gaining a foothold in the fashion market is political. It is a reaction against the increasing use by many designers, notably John Galliano, of fur. Many designers don't feel comfortable using real fur in their collections, and sheepskin provides a solution. It is durable, warm and versatile, and it has enduring luxury appeal. Antonio Berardi neatly sidestepped the fur dilemma for this winter by agreeing to design a special collection for Ruffo, an Italian producer of high-quality leather, which specialises in sheepskin.

Ruffo commissioned Berardi to design a line under the label Ruffo Research, which he did with great success, and this led him to designing sheepskin pieces under his own name. We're not just talking jackets here. Berardi designed the hand-embroidered shell top shown on page 37, a sexy dress, and a skirt, as well as the inevitable curvy jacket. "I wanted to use sheepskin in a way it isn't normally used," says Berardi, "you can go to Marks & Spencer and buy sheepskin gloves, it's not that precious, but I've tried to make it look precious. You can do that with anything."

True, but it takes a little thought, and a lot of conviction. Melanie Rickey

Purple sheepskin sleeveless coat, pounds 1,923, by Krizia, 25 Conduit Street, London W1, enquiries 071-491 4987; grey tunic, pounds 328, by MaxMara, 32 Sloane Street, London SW1, enquiries 0171-287 3434; white Yeti boots, pounds 650, by Manolo Blahnik, 49 Old Church Street, London SW3, enquiries 0171-352 3863

Cream sheepskin jacket, pounds 750, by Owen Gaster, as before; black knitted skirt, pounds 338, by Clements Ribeiro, from Tokio, 309 Brompton Road, London SW3, enquiries 0171-409 7719 Stylist's assistant Holly Wood

Hair Mark Anderson

Make-up Siobhan Luckie using Aveda

Model Alex Paton at Select