A decade of Grecian reinvention: How OPSO changed the way London eats Greek food

Ten years ago, OPSO crashed into London’s dining scene and ripped up the Greek rulebook. Now, with a celebratory menu and a debut cookbook to boot, founders Nikos Roussos and Andreas Labridis look back at a decade of redefining Greek cuisine – where smoked eel meets carbonara, brunch gets a Mediterranean twist and every ingredient serves a purpose. By Hannah Twiggs

OPSO has been reshaping Greek cuisine since 2014 (Lateef Okunnu)

There’s Greek food, and then there’s OPSO. In the busy, bountiful smorgasbord of London dining, it can be hard to recall a time before Mediterranean cuisine found a place at every turn, yet something about OPSO’s arrival a decade ago shifted expectations.

It wasn’t the predictable souvlaki wrap or moussaka cliché, but rather an unabashed, daring attempt by chef Nikos Roussos and restaurateur Andreas Labridis to reimagine Greek fare as something modern, something unashamedly refined.

Since 2014, they’ve reshaped the perceptions of what Greek cuisine could – and should – be, right from their stylish Marylebone perch.

“Greek food is the pillar of the Mediterranean diet, known for its comforting flavours, high-quality ingredients and emphasis on wellbeing,” Labridis says. “Sharing food is integral to Greek culture, and with OPSO, we set out to bring these values together in a fresh, modern approach that brings Greek cooking beyond Greek borders.”

It’s fair to say, they’ve succeeded. They dared to serve diners more than the “white tablecloth” fantasies of the Mediterranean, leaning into real Greek flavours with an enviable culinary audacity.

To mark a decade in the business, OPSO is going all-out with an anniversary menu from 12-18 November, a culinary victory lap celebrating the dishes that have defined the restaurant and its unflinching, elevated take on Greek cuisine. Naturally, there’s a nod to OPSO: A Modern Greek Cookbook, launched 7 November, which brings their journey full circle from kitchen to home cooking.

Reflecting on the journey, Roussos and Labridis say: “This menu is a real celebration of the past 10 years and everything we’ve accomplished along the way. We can’t wait to welcome our guests and give them the chance to experience the dishes that have shaped OPSO’s journey.”

Recipes from ‘OPSO: A Modern Greek Cookbook’ will be available on the anniversary menu (Ebury)

With nostalgia on the menu, they’re inviting diners to savour the pastitsio that had people swooning back in 2015, along with 2014’s “snails and chips” – Roussos’s winking interpretation of a British classic. It’s OPSO’s greatest hits, if you will.

The OPSO founders are adamant, however, that their Greek food isn’t simply about taste. From day one, their culinary compass pointed to fresh interpretations – ones that still respect Greece’s heritage but refuse to get stuck in its sunlit, taverna-bound image. “Greece is indeed well known for its blue seas, warm climate and coastal beauty, yet its culinary heritage is rich and varied beyond summer weather,” Labridis insists, countering the tourism-poster stereotypes. “Greek cuisine draws deeply from the mainland and mountainous regions, where autumn and winter bring an abundance of unique ingredients – wild mushrooms, truffles, native greens, bulbs and vegetables, lamb, goat and even game meats.” With this, OPSO has all but debunked the myth that Greek food works only in sunshine, leaning instead into earthy, warm flavours, which often sit underappreciated.

“We might retain the essential ingredients but alter the cooking methods or substitute an ingredient in a classic recipe,” Labridis says. It’s the culinary equivalent of remixing a beloved song: the rhythm’s there, but the beat is unexpected. Take, for example, eel carbonara, where the smoky eel stands in for guanciale, bringing a sensuous depth to a familiar pasta classic. Or the octopus dog, inspired by the obvious similarities between an octopus tentacle and a sausage – because, why not?

It isn’t just creative impulse that drives OPSO, though. Sustainability has also become a core part of their philosophy, particularly when it comes to seafood. “We source the majority of our products, including vegetables, meats and fish, from local producers, while our exclusive Greek ingredients are imported from sustainable producers in our homeland,” Labridis notes. The “waste not, use all” approach is one they champion, exemplified in their reimagined moussakas: grilled aubergine drippings find new life in a sea bass imam – a way of teasing every last bit of flavour from their ingredients, reminding us that great food needn’t come at the planet’s expense.

Andreas Labridis and Nikos Roussos founded OPSO in 2014 (OPSO)

Beyond the restaurant’s walls, OPSO has changed the London food landscape, too. With a spot-on instinct for what’s missing in the market, OPSO introduced a modern Greek brunch to London – which has since become a favourite among Londoners and Greeks alike. On the anniversary brunch menu, which will run from 16-17 November, guests can indulge in a Snickers pancake or koulouri milk bread with goat’s curd. It’s Greek cuisine breaking the breakfast mould, tailored to a younger, curious crowd seeking a new flavour adventure in a familiar format.

As OPSO celebrates its 10-year milestone, there’s a sense of how far Greek cuisine has come, not only in London but across the UK. “Greek cuisine has truly come into the spotlight in London’s competitive, diverse market,” Labridis reflects. “From upscale taverns to fine dining establishments, Greek restaurants continue to earn critical acclaim and appear in top guides of the city. We are honoured to be part of this growing recognition of Greece’s culinary heritage.” And rightfully so – Londoners now know their mastic from their bottarga, a culinary enlightenment made possible by trailblazing Greek establishments like OPSO.

The team isn’t stopping there. This year, they’ve expanded to Doha, and they’re eager to bring their fresh take on Greek cuisine to even more diners worldwide. “People are now more aware of the complexity and diversity of Greek cuisine, choosing their preferable flavours and embracing its rich local ingredients that were less known in the past,” Labridis says, hinting at a growing appetite for all things Greek.

For the curious Londoner who wants a taste of OPSO’s evolution, the anniversary menu serves as a time capsule of 10 years of culinary boldness, and for those inspired to try their hand at OPSO’s flavours, the cookbook is available with a celebratory 40 per cent discount. “We can’t wait for everyone to experience the flavours of modern Greek cuisine in their own kitchens,” Roussos says, eager to pass the torch from restaurant to home kitchen.

As OPSO looks back over the past decade, Roussos and Labridis seem simultaneously humbled and inspired by what they’ve accomplished. It’s a sentiment that resonates with Londoners who’ve come to see Greek cuisine as a vital, evolving part of the city’s culinary tapestry. And with their ever-present curiosity and unflaggin devotion to Greece’s vibrant culinary heritage, here’s to whatever comes next for OPSO – and Greek cuisine – in the decade ahead.

The 10-year anniversary menu is available at OPSO 12-18 November, and the anniversary brunch 16-17 November.

Recipes from ‘OPSO: A Modern Greek Cookbook’ (Ebury, £35).

Taramas

OPSO’s taramas uses rye bread and Greek bottarga for more depth of flavour and a lingering aftertaste (Lateef Okunnu)

Let’s start by differentiating between taramas and taramosalata. Taramas refers to the cured eggs of cod, whereas taramosalata is a spread made by blending the cured eggs with bread, olive oil, a hint of garlic and lemon juice.

Although salata means salad in Greek, we often simply refer to this dish as “taramas” when ordering it in tavernas. To give our version more depth of flavour, we use rye bread in the blending and top the final dish with the finest Greek bottarga to achieve a lingering aftertaste. Bottarga, another kind of roe widely used in Greek cuisine, comes from the “bafa” fish, which is a local kind of grey mullet.

By making this dish you will become familiar with these speciality Greek roe products, which are so deeply rooted in the culinary background of the country. Back in the old times, taramas was found in most Greek households, not only because of its salty and delicate fishy flavour but also because it was a cheap and easy way to enjoy a delicious, filling spread. For us it’s a delicacy, especially as we use high-quality taramas cod roe, peppery extra-virgin olive oil and Greek bottarga.

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

70g two-day-old sourdough rye bread, crust removed and cut into large cubes

160ml sunflower oil

150ml water

25g white taramas (100% cod’s roe)

4 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp lemon juice, strained

Grated zest of ¼ lemon

½ garlic clove, finely chopped

Pinch of fine salt

To garnish:

Sunflower oil, for deep-frying

1 shiso leaf

1 slice sourdough bread

1 tbsp bottarga crumbled

Method:

1. Place the bread cubes in a bowl. Add the sunflower oil and set aside to soak for 10 minutes.

2. Transfer the bread and sunflower oil to a blender. Add the water, taramas, olive oil, lemon juice and zest, garlic and salt. Blend for 5-10 minutes, or until the mixture is smooth with a fine texture. Transfer to a bowl, cover and leave in the fridge until cold.

3. Just before serving, make the garnish: pour enough sunflower oil to deep-fry the shiso leaf into a small pan. Set over a medium to high heat and, when it’s hot, add the leaf and fry for 10 seconds on each side, or until crisp. Remove carefully with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

4. Toast the slice of bread until blackened on both sides.

5. Transfer the taramas to a serving plate and scrape the blackened crumbs from the toasted bread over the top to give it a charred flavour. Sprinkle with bottarga and garnish with the fried shiso leaf. Serve immediately with fresh sourdough bread.

Tip: When blending the taramas, you can add cold water, a few drops at a time, through the feed tube to achieve a silky texture.

Lamb shank trahanas

Trahanas is similar to pasta and can be cooked in a soup or served creamy as a side or starter (Lateef Okunnu)

Trahanas is a traditional Greek ingredient made from wheat flour, eggs and milk, then fermented and dried to form small pasta-like granules or larger chunks. There are two kinds: sour and sweet, but, to be precise, the latter is not really sweet, just less sour! Trahanas can be cooked in a soup or served creamy as a starchy side dish or a starter. It’s interesting as it looks like pasta but it’s not, as it contains milk. Its flavour is strongly characterized by the quality of the ingredients used during production, and this is why it is made in the Greek countryside, where producers use their own milk and eggs to create a unique taste

Serves: 2

Ingredients:

1 lamb shank, approx 450–550g

Pinch of fine salt

4 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

3 sprigs of rosemary

1 garlic clove

200ml water

30g graviera cheese

30g fresh black truffle, thinly sliced

For the mushrooms:

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

200g shiitake or king oyster mushrooms, cleaned, stalks removed and roughly chopped

½ garlic clove, finely chopped

3 sprigs of thyme

a pinch of fine salt

20g unsalted butter

For the mushroom trahanas:

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

½ white onion, finely chopped

120g trahanas pasta, sweet (dry weight)

70ml white wine

400ml hot chicken stock, plus extra if needed

20g graviera cheese, grated

30g unsalted butter

½ tsp fine salt

2 twists of freshly ground white pepper

½ tbsp finely chopped chives

1 tbsp thinly sliced tarragon

1 tsp lemon juice, strained

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 180C fan (200C), gas mark 6.

2. Season the lamb shank with salt. Heat the olive oil in a pan set over a medium heat. Add the lamb and cook it for a few minutes, turning occasionally, until golden brown all over.

3. Add the rosemary and garlic and cook for 1 minute, then deglaze with the water, and scrape the bottom of the pan with a rubber spatula to dislodge any brown bits.

4. Transfer everything from the pan to a ceramic casserole dish, cover with baking paper and kitchen foil and bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour 45 minutes, or until the lamb is really tender. Discard the foil and baking paper, then return the casserole to the oven for 5–10 minutes, or until the lamb shank is nicely coloured. Remove from the oven and cover to keep warm.

5. While the lamb is cooking, make the mushrooms for the trahanas: heat the olive oil in a pan set over a medium heat and cook the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, for 4–5 minutes, or until tender. Add the garlic, thyme and salt, and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter. Discard the thyme sprigs.

6. Make the mushroom trahanas: heat the olive oil in a saucepan set over a medium heat and sauté the onion until softened and translucent. Add the trahanas and sauté, stirring, for 2–3 minutes. Deglaze with the white wine and continue stirring until it has evaporated. Gradually add the chicken stock, in three or four batches, and cook, stirring often, for 8–10 minutes, or until the trahanas pasta is cooked and the sauce is creamy.

7. Stir in the cooked mushrooms, graviera, butter, salt and pepper and mix well. Remove from the heat, then add the chives, tarragon and lemon juice.

Village eggs

People in the mountains often pair wild greens with free-range eggs, like in this dish (Lateef Okunnu)

Greece is famous for its spectacular coastline and islands but it offers much more than stunning beaches and clear blue water. It has a diverse and unique landscape with snow-capped mountains, dense forests, fast-flowing rivers, lakes and waterfalls. Nestled in the mountains are small villages, each one with its own remarkable culinary history. The villagers utilise local, sustainable foods, such as horta, which are locally foraged seasonal varieties of leafy “wild mountain greens”. The locals often pair them with free-range eggs from their backyards, creating a unique and delicious combination of flavours.

Serves: 1

Ingredients:

120g foraged greens or market greens (eg chard), washed

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for frying the egg

½ tsp lemon juice, strained

Pinch of fine salt

1 large free-range egg

20g goat’s curd cheese, cut into pieces

Grated zest of ¼ lemon

Pinch of sea salt flakes

2 twists of freshly ground Madagascar pepper

2 chives, finely chopped

2 slices sourdough bread, toasted

For the smoked yoghurt:

2 spring onions, trimmed and peeled

2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

¼ garlic clove, grated (with a Microplane grater)

Pinch of sea salt flakes

2 twists of freshly ground white pepper

100g full-fat Greek yoghurt

Method:

1. Make the smoked yoghurt: chargrill the spring onions over charcoal until blackened. Alternatively, bake in a preheated oven at 180C fan (200C), gas mark 6 for 40 minutes, or until blackened and crispy.

2. Chop the charred spring onions and pulse in a blender until powdery.

3. Transfer the spring onion powder to a bowl and mix with the olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper, and yoghurt until well combined. Set aside.

4. Blanch the greens in a pan of boiling water for 2-4 minutes, or until just tender. Drain and then plunge into a bowl of iced water to cool down. Remove and pat dry with kitchen paper.

5. Place them in a bowl and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Chargrill them over charcoal or in a grill pan, tossing them for 2 minutes, or until just charred. Return to the bowl and add the remaining olive oil, lemon juice and salt.

6. Fry the egg, sunny-side up, in some olive oil in a frying pan until the white is cooked but the yolk is still runny.

7. Spread the smoked yoghurt in the centre of a rustic earthenware bowl and arrange the greens on top. Place the fried egg in the middle and scatter the goat’s curd cheese around it. Season with the lemon zest, salt and pepper and sprinkle the chives over the egg yolk. Serve with toasted sourdough bread.

Tip: If you can’t find goat’s curd cheese, use feta or any good-quality soft goat’s cheese instead.