Malta food guide: Where to eat, new Michelin-starred restaurants and a rabbit pasta to die for

Since her first trip to Malta, Amira Arasteh has been dreaming of rabbit bolognese. When she returned years later she fell in love all over again, and also found that the sunniest country in Europe has some of the best food too

Rabbit pasta is a take on stewed rabbit, Malta’s national dish (Amira Arasteh)

On my first visit to Malta in the summer of 2015, I ate a very special dish. A bold statement since even though I was already growing into an avid “foodie” as a student back then, the finances and lifestyle of university didn’t always go hand in hand with incredibly memorable dining experiences.

But back to The Dish. It was my first time having rabbit bolognese – and it certainly made an impression. A twist on the classic Italian favourite, a new depth of flavour was brought to the dish by the use of rabbit. While not known as the island’s piece de resistance, stewed rabbit (stuffat tal-fenek) is a traditional Maltese dish that is often referred to as the country’s national dish. All I can say is that almost a decade later, Maltese rabbit still holds a place in this foodie’s heart.

Upon first introduction, Maltese cuisine bears a heavy resemblance to Italian food, with the likes of pasta, risotto and antipasti all playing a prominent part in a classic Maltese dinner party table. Add in some Arab and North African influences – which can be seen in various dips, stews, herbs and spices – and you get a bit of a better idea of the country’s style of food.

When I landed in Malta again, this time to visit the gorgeous Xara Palace hotel, situated in the heart of Mdina, all I could think about was hunting down the dish that had stolen my heart, and my palate, the first time I was here.

Neslted within the medieval city, the Xara Palace is a 17th century palazzo that emulates the city’s historic charm and stunning architecture – and is also home to two restaurants, as well as the wider collection boasting a standalone restaurant in Mdina, plus two further ones in The Xara Village, in popular holiday spot St Julian’s.

While Malta itself hosts a myriad of exciting eateries to feast your tastebuds upon, the Xara Collection offered a wide variety itself – and made for an exceptional gastronomic second trip to the island.

The de Mondion Restaurant

De Mondian has one Michelin star (Xara Palace)

The entire Xara Palace oozes a beautifully rustic charm and even its Michelin-starred restaurant de Mondion is tucked away within the bastion walls of the roof terrace. Having retained its star for four years, this fine dining restaurant prides itself in celebrating and serving top seasonal, organic and local produce with chef Clint Grech at the helm.

The Taste of Malta menu features an impressive seven courses, with every bite an absolute explosion of flavour; a wild party for the tastebuds. Perfectly paired with a range of wines, hand-selected by the sommelier, every dish was well-complemented. Standout dishes include the Gozitan octopus, with swede, unagi and tapioca – a mouthwatering course that arrived plated up like a piece of art. The foie gras with chocolate and miso was one of the more interesting dishes on the menu, while the tagliolini with cuttlefish and sea urchin fully transported you to the sea, all in one bite. Throughout our stay at Xara Palace, the traditional Maltese bread ftira featured on a variety of menus and it was served alongside a stunning suckling pig (with kohlrabi, apple vinegar and black truffle) at De Mondion, too.

demondion.xaracollection.com

The Medina Restaurant

Medina restaurant is over 500 years old (Amira Arasteh)

Your tummy and tastebuds are not ready for the gastronomic heaven that awaits them at Medina. Xara Collection also holds this 500-year-old restaurant within its portfolio, tucked neatly away within the stone walls of the Silent City itself. With gorgeous green decor, complementing the honey-coloured stone walls, the eatery is like a hidden oasis just off the main cathedral square and down one of the many winding streets.

Championing the Mediterranean Arabs’ influence on Maltese cuisine, Medina focuses on a carefully curated array of ingredients and flavour within every dish on its menu. Earning a well-deserved feature in the Michelin Guide, highlights from this gorgeous restaurant include the dolmas, tabbouleh salad, local fish tartare and classic Maltese fish soup Aljotta (don’t skip this, please). The starters are very much a nod to the Middle East, with falafel bites and baba ghanoush also making appearances on the menu – while local octopus stew and pan-fried rabbit were more contemporary classics that were equally delicious.

The Maltese roast potatoes (a real treat for the tastebuds, seasoned with garlic and fennel) are also not to be missed. At the back of the menu is an educational insight into the sources of various ingredients and the significance to Maltese food, with the popularity of the modern day fenkata (rabbit), dating back to the Arab rule of Malta, when it was mostly consumed by those of high social standing. Sharbat (sugary drinks common in the Middle East) are what are said to have influenced the iced tea and sorbet craze in Malta nowadays, too.

The rabbit pasta at Medina kicked my core memory version’s (from 2015) butt. It was just on another level. In fact, we were a group sharing various small plates and everyone else at the table was only too kind and gracious (or perhaps just street smart and savvy for pre-empting future hangry consequences) to allow me the dish to myself. It wasn’t even love at first bite – as the smell that wafted towards the table as the dish was brought over was pure intoxication. Heavenly. It looked incredible, and I either implore the restaurant to set up a residency in my hometown London or for pasta restaurants in the city to step up their game.

medinarestaurant.xaracollection.com

Trattoria AD 1530

Trattoria is more of a casual eatery (Amira Arasteh)

Xara Palace’s more casual eatery, Trattoria AD 1530 is situated on the ground floor of the hotel grounds – with easy access for those who are not hotel guests, too. Focusing on the Italian roots here, diners can feast upon various pizzas, pastas, salads and meat and fish grills in this cosy and charming spot.

Aubergine parmigiana and calamari are commonly expected dishes that make appearances on the menu – but if you’re looking to enjoy what’s on offer with a Maltese touch, my recommendations would be the bruschetta, as it’s served on the iconic toasted Maltese bread, and there’s even a dedicated Maltese platter – featuring a selection of Maltese sausage, tuna sott oligo (preserved under oil), the local Ġbejna soft, peppery cheese, bigilla (a tasty and traditional Maltese mashed beans dip-style dish) and local ftira bread. The pizzas and beef tagliata were all met with favourable sounds as they were wolfed down – but I am me and could not bypass the linguine with clams.

xarapalace.com.mt/dining/trattoria-ad-1530

Rosami At The Villa

Listed in the Michelin Guide, Rosamí focuses on locally sourced ingredients (Amira Arasteh)

Another worthy entrant to the Michelin Guide is Rosamí at Xara Villa, a 19th-century palazzo which overlooks Balluta Bay (we’re coming full circle as I actually stayed in this area upon my first visit to Malta). The restaurant takes on the persona of a more playful and contemporary addition to the Xara Collection’s culinary repertoire, following in the footsteps of de Mondion, without as much focus on the traditional fine dining concept. Chef Cliff Borg has designed a beautifully elegant menu, with all dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients to create such mouthwatering dishes. Standout plates include the theatrically presented Xara Egg, housing a creamy velouté-style soup, and the divine red snapper, served with burratina and ’nduja haricot ragout, as well as the toasted rice dessert with chocolate and Earl Grey.

Guests can also indulge in a pre-dinner aperitif on the ground floor terrace at Oka’s – where the colourful and carefully curated cocktails keep on coming and can be enjoyed alongside sharing plates of seafood platters and more hearty meat dishes, should you wish to dine there, too.

rosami.xaracollection.com

For more information visit okas.xaracollection.com