Crowd-free and captivating: Why now’s the time to visit Sri Lanka
This south Asian nation has had a tough year but it remains magical for tourists, writes Jennifer Lutz
In Arugam Bay, surfers ride to shore with the last glints of sun. I’m a bit less graceful, balancing on a wobbling beginner’s board while my instructor chokes back a laugh. The mood is lighter than you’d imagine. Just days after countries lifted their advice against travelling here, Sri Lanka’s east coast keeps the party going. Usually crowded bars host local musicians, playing bluesy notes to the handful of travellers who come for the waves, vibes and smoothie bowls. Bare-legged women sit next to shaggy-haired men drinking cucumber mojitos. Waves crash to shore and scents of coconut hang in the sea-salt air.
Signs of the recent unrest and economic crisis are surprisingly few and far between. Uncrowded beaches are many, a quiet respite from my previous visit in January. You get the sense of a country that’s working to move forward and reignite its tourism sector.
By the time I arrived in Arugam Bay, I’d been in the country nearly a month, travelling between the west and east coasts, with brief stays in the capital, Colombo. I won’t say I wasn’t nervous, unsure what to expect amid reports of petrol shortages and civil unrest – but where I’d anticipated chaos and hostility, I found order and hospitality.
The biggest consideration is the petrol shortage, and you’ll want to plan ahead when putting together an itinerary. To encourage tourism, the government created special provisions for the sector; registered vehicles are given fuel allowances based on their reported itinerary. You’ll have no trouble hiring a driver to take you from the west coast to the east coast or from Colombo to Kandy, but it’s best to book in advance. I’d recommend hiring a car through your hotel or resort, especially for airport pickup; Kitesurfing Lanka’s driver was a reassuring sight waiting for me just beyond baggage claim, smiling and holding a sign with Jenny scrawled in thick black ink.
The same provisions also prevent tourists from queuing for fuel. If you go, you’ll notice tourist vehicles pulling directly to the pump, showing a QR code, and gesturing to their passengers. When I asked my resort’s Colombo-born co-founder about it, he told me: “We need an immediate influx of dollars – tourism is the fastest way to do it. Either way, we wait in line.” I can’t promise everyone feels the same, but I can say I never had trouble travelling by car, tuk-tuk or motorbike during my trip.
If swanky bars and fancy dinners are your style, spend a few days in Colombo. You can eat until midnight and drink until 3am; curfews are a thing of the past. The closest you’ll get to a riot right now is watching Sri Lanka versus Bangladesh in cricket.
When a leopard came near, our driver cut the engine; we could hear him move from the brush to the road, crossing our path with a lazy grace
For accommodation, now’s the time to choose a hotel over an Airbnb. During my time in the capital, daily power cuts lasted around an hour. You won’t feel them in most resorts and hotels, though; owners keep their generators running, even if that means paying triple for fuel. Towns with wind farms are mostly guarded against outages, too – during three weeks in Kalpitiya I experienced two instances where we waited a beat for generators to switch on after lights switched off.
If you’re looking for a more tranquil experience, there are further incentives to visit this northwestern coastal town, where tourism is a recent development driven by kite surfers who go for the seasonal winds and flat waters. I spent mornings trying (though rarely succeeding) to direct a kite through the sky, skimming the sea’s surface with my feet strapped to a board. Resorts here tend to focus on sustainability, and you’ll notice the integration of local produce and products.
On top of the local flavours, the absence of crowds made the experience more personal and was preferable to my previous stay in January. I took day trips with the handful of other tourists and resort staff, making the most of uncluttered beaches, national parks and towns. During our eight-hour safari through Wilpattu National Park, we saw no other visitors. When a leopard came near, our driver cut the engine; we could hear him move from the brush to the road, crossing our path with a lazy grace. It’s hard to convey the feeling of a private tour through the jungle – no rush, no distractions, just us and the owls, crocodiles, elephants, water buffalo and leopards. We saw all of them while driving through terrain that changed from red dirt to white sand and back again.
In Kalpitiya town, things were more energetic: motorbikes pivoted past village cows, dodged donkeys and scooted around dips in the road while metal-sided stalls protected fruit-sellers from the sun. Still, I had the sense of having an inside pass to the local digs; you’ll want to order ahead for the chicken burger at Subra and go to Rascals for the best coffee. You can buy whatever clothes you need in the shops, but you’ll spend less money having them tailor-made. Markets and pharmacies were well stocked, but high inflation drove up prices on imports; it’s a good idea to bring anything you can’t live without, like prescriptions.
It’s helpful to find a tuk-tuk driver you like and keep their number. In the villages, it’s easier than the local app, pickme, and will save time and money. You can call your driver in advance, and they’ll be sure to have enough petrol for a round-trip ride. Lull took me everywhere I needed to go and – an added bonus far removed from anonymous Uber drivers – inspected the backseat each night, ensuring I didn’t leave behind a phone or wallet.
Most days I had the sensation of being on a private island; it was like living inside a photograph. I understand why, just three years prior, Lonely Planet ranked Sri Lanka a top travel destination. Now, I was inside the magazine cover – only this time with the crowds cropped out. It may have made the headlines this year for sadder reasons, but the locals here are eager and ready to welcome back holidaymakers. And your tourist spend could help more than you know.
Travel essentials
Getting there
Trying to fly less?
As an island nation in south Asia, it’s not easy to reach Sri Lanka flight-free – however, some container ships do offer passage for a limited number of travellers from Antwerp via the Suez Canal.
Fine with flying?
SriLankan flies direct from London Heathrow to Colombo.
Staying there
Coco Hostels in Arugam Bay is a surfer favourite with a hipster vibe. Private room with a bathroom from €35.
Marino Beach Hotel in Colombo offers swank hospitality, complete with an infinity pool on the roof and breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean. Doubles from €65.
Kumu Beach in Balapitiya is a boutique luxury hotel on the west coast, just south of Colombo. Private beach access and modern decor offer next-level relaxation. Doubles from €200, B&B.
Kitesurfing Lanka in Kalpitiya is a kitesurfing resort with beach access and a family feel. Bungalows from €55/person for a double room, full board
Rascals Kite Resort in Kalpitiya is a family operated boutique resort, nestled amid a coconut plantation and overlooking the Kalpitiya lagoon. Bungalows from €80, full board.
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