Core values: An autumnal cider trail through rural Somerset

With cute, unflashy barns to sip in and tranquil cycling trails between the orchards, Somerset is heaven for an autumn weekend, says Georgie Duckworth

Somerset’s lush apple orchards (Georgie Duckworth)

Lost among the back lanes and ancient drover’s tracks of the Somerset levels are a network of hidden cider farms. Their barns are dusty and the smell is distinctly farmyard but the cider they produce is delightful.

In autumn, the farms spring to life as pressing begins. Apples trundle along rusty conveyor belts before dropping into creaking presses. Laden tractors arrive from local orchards or carry away leftover pomace, back out to the fields to feed the animals. Nothing is wasted. There’s a real energy and buzz to the ordinarily peaceful farmyards. This is the golden season of cider and the perfect time to experience it.

Connected by quiet country roads and meandering cycle tracks, these cider farms are best explored by bike. And so, on a sunny October weekend, I found myself two sturdy wheels and set off cycling through glorious countryside, to witness cider-making in action and have a taste of Somerset’s finest.

Apples harvested for the cider press at Burrow Hill (Georgie Duckworth)

Many of these farms have been producing cider for generations using traditional techniques. These are places where the local community has gathered for centuries, to drink and share stories, alongside cows chewing the cud. Little has changed except that locals are now joined by visitors from further afield, in a bid to attract tourism to the area. The set-up is simple: a few picnic tables dotted around lush, tree-lined orchards and a relaxed atmosphere. Cider is served from giant wooden barrels, usually by the farmer himself.

I began my journey in Langport, a quirky town at the heart of the Somerset Levels. Heading north, I warmed my legs up with a short first cycle, to Bere Aller and Jim’s Cider Shack. Jim Lockyer and his family have been making cider here for three generations but, as for so many of these farms, recent times have been tough. They’ve felt the weight of government regulations, export restrictions and competition from industry giants such as Thatchers. Fortunately, artisan ciders such as Jim’s flagship “Goldrush” brew have seen a gentle increase in popularity, and there’s a lucrative new trade in shipping ciders out to appreciators across the globe.

Views stretch boundlessly across an ocean of green pasture, accentuating the calm and tranquillity

Even so, making and selling cider alone isn’t enough to pay the bills. One by one, these farms are diversifying to find alternative revenue. For Jim, that has meant opening up a cafe at the farm, with teas and lunches available; a truly beautiful place with a soporific quality. Views stretch boundlessly across an ocean of green pasture, accentuating the calm and tranquillity. I could happily have stayed all day, tasting brews and enjoying a ploughman’s, but with more distance to cover I consulted the map and continued on my way.

Passing through Shapwick Heath nature reserve, I paused briefly to walk along the ancient line of the Sweet Track: a neolithic pathway through the reed swamps, dating back 6,000 years. The track has been preserved in the wet peat below, and you can see a replica section heading off into the reeds just as it did all that time ago. As with so much of this area, there’s a strong sense of connection to previous, historic ways of life.

Next I headed for the aptly named Land’s End Farm, home to Wilkins Cider. It really did feel like the back of beyond, but I knew I’d arrived at the right spot as soon as I heard the distinctive drone of a cider press in action. Following the noise into the open barn, I stood to admire the apples creeping up a vertical conveyor belt before dropping into the giant wooden press.

The sleepy atmosphere at Burrow Hill farm (Georgie Duckworth)

Standing beside two enormous barrels of cider was farmer Roger Wilkins, overall-clad and keeping a beady eye on production. Behind him, a pinboard was covered in photos displaying some of the celebs who have made a pilgrimage to his cider farm over the years, including the Rolling Stones. Chatting about the impact of the pandemic on his business, he tells me: “We did alright; after all, cider’s better than any medicine they give.”

I don’t know about that, but I’m happy to try a dose. Wilkins’ is sharp but smooth, smells just slightly of farmyard and tastes of clear-cut apple – just how cider should be. The locals certainly enjoy it; as Roger fills my glass, a table of regulars sit in the corner of the barn, carousing and flicking away flies with elastic bands.

After an overnight stay at the wonderfully eccentric Sheppey Inn, it was back in the saddle again to find Burrow Hill Cider Farm. As I arrived, trailer loads of apples were being emptied into the courtyard then shifted by water from giant hoses directly towards the press. Burrow Hill suited its name, too: a hive of activity with people and dogs milling around.

Pausing in the dappled sunlit orchards to enjoy a pint made with apples from the trees around me, I couldn’t help but think that I’d found a real slice of the good life

Cider has been made here by Julian and his ancestors for more than 200 years. More recently, he’s become the first recipient of a full UK licence to distil cider, and thus the Somerset Cider Brandy company was born. Half of their cider is set aside for distilling in Josephine and Fifi, their twin copper stills that sit proudly on display. Julian takes me into the warehouse where hundreds of oak casks filled with slowly maturing brandy are stored; the “crown jewels” as he calls it. The cider smells delicious and tastes beautifully sweet.

Pausing in the dappled sunlit orchards to enjoy a pint made with apples from the trees around me, I couldn’t help but think that I’d found a real slice of the good life. Cycling around this part of Somerset is an absolute joy. As it’s notoriously flat, you’re able to focus on the tranquil countryside around you rather than the burn in your leg muscles. One moment you’re rolling through woodlands tinted with the reds, golds and yellows of autumn, the next cruising along open plains with only livestock for company.

A room at The Sheppey in Lower Godney (The Sheppey)

Freewheeling on a bike gives me time to notice the details of this landscape: the tumbledown barns crumbling under ivy, the buzzing dragonflies above the dykes, the egrets and herons standing sentinel in the pastures. At this time of year, you might be lucky enough to witness the magical display of a starling murmuration; a mass of hundreds of thousands of birds pulsating and spiralling above you. Yes, this is a connect-the-dots journey for cider lovers, but you’re here as much for the landscape as the refreshments. Supporting small local businesses and travelling carbon-free? Well, that’s just a bonus.

Travel essentials

Your cycling route

There’s no set cider cycle trail to follow but with so many cider barns to visit across the region, you can customise a route to match the distance you would like to travel. There are some beautiful designated cycle paths between the cider farms, including cycle route 33 and 339, plus tracks through Shapwick Heath and Westhay Moor nature reserves. Easy places to start include Cheddar and Langport, which both have bike hire shops. Find more information about cycling the area and exploring the cider barns here.

Bike hire

Parrett Trail Bike in Langport is perfectly placed to explore the cider farms. They have a good selection of bikes and e-bikes. Bike hire is typically one day but multi-day exceptions can be made. Full day hire from £25.

Cheddar Bikes also offers multi-day rental if you want to incorporate Cheddar Gorge and the Mendip Hills into your ride. Full day hire from £21.

Staying there

The Sheppey Inn in Lower Godney is a wonderfully quirky place to stay in the heart of the Somerset Levels. Great food and a selection of retro toys to admire. Rooms from £120 per night (two night minimum stay).

After a long day in the saddle, relax in a hammock or enjoy a drink in the walled garden at the Lord Poulett Arms in Hinton St George. Luxurious and comfortable rooms from £95 per night.