Seven of the best foodie stops on a culinary odyssey around Emilia-Romagna
Shelley Rubenstein revels in a gastronomical tour of northeast Italy
Emilia-Romagna is a world-renowned gastronomical centre of excellence in northeast Italy. With Emilia to the west and Romagna to the east, framed by the Adriatic coastline, they’re bound by a culinary heritage – the very best of the country’s bountiful produce.
Emilia’s a carnivore’s paradise, exemplified by Bologna mortadella [sausage], Piacenza pancetta [bacon] and Parman prosciutto [ham]. The region boasts 42 DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta, or Protected Designation of Origin) products, spearheaded by the undisputed “king of cheeses” – Parmigiano Reggiano, accounting for 41 per cent of Italy’s exports.
The region is also famed for the quintessential complement to olive oil – Modena’s balsamic vinegar. Yet there are many more delectables to salivate over within Emilia-Romagna. Here are seven of the best culinary stops.
Cervia, Ravenna: Salt
Salt is so lauded in the coastal Cervia, Ravenna, that there is even an annual Taste of Salt festival to honour their precious “white gold”. This cornerstone ingredient is a vital component when making piadina – thin flatbread, comprised of flour, lard, salt and water. It’s one of Italy’s most popular street foods, often stuffed with a variety of savoury fillings.
Casa Spadoni, Faenza: Piadina
Piadina’s a menu lynchpin at the rustic Casa Spadoni, Faenza. Housed in a former silk factory, seconded for use as a military base during the Second World War, this restaurant provides an authentic introduction to local cuisine. The provenance of each ingredient is paramount, according to co-founder Beatrice Rossi: “We know the wheat used in the flour, the milk for cheeses and the cereals given to our Mora Romagnola pigs.” Be sure to stock up on products from the adjoining shop, especially the handy piadina mix.
Borgo Conde, Forli: Wine
Spend the night at Borgo Conde, a charming family-run winery and hotel overlooking the bucolic hills of Romagna’s central city, Forli. Tours of the wine cellars and tastings hosted by Chiara Condello, daughter of owner Francesco, are a highlight. Chiara enthuses: “What makes the cuisine in Romagna exceptional is that it’s based on traditions of simplicity, using the highest-quality ingredients.”
Casa Artusi, Forlimpopoli: Traditional recipes
A trip to Forlimpopoli to pay homage to one of the city’s most beloved sons, Pellegrino Artusi, is essential. His seminal book, The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well, remains as relevant today as when it was published in 1891. Frustrated by the lack of Italian-language cookery books, Artusi set himself the arduous task of collating recipes from all over Italy, creating a historical document preserving these traditional dishes for future generations.
The annual Festa Artusiana takes place over nine days in June. This homage to Artusi celebrates all elements of gastronomy and among the prizes is one for the “best homemaker”.
Artusi accumulated a significant library which he bequeathed to the city and is housed at Casa Artusi, alongside the Italian Gastronomy Collection, which offers a range of classes promoting traditional Romagna home cookery with an emphasis on quality and seasonal ingredients.
Within a couple of hours, students become certified pasta makers who’ve whipped up an accomplished meal of ravioli, tagliolini, tortellini and garganelli. It’s not just a masterclass in Italy’s national dish but also illustrates the nuance between the many shapes and sizes and how a crease or fold affects the depth of flavour when augmented with a sauce or extra virgin olive oil.
Grand Hotel Rimini, Rimini: Lambrusco
There’s no better spot to louche with a chilled Lambrusco or crisp Sangiovese than on Grand Hotel Rimini’s terrace. Overlooking the sea, it’s the epitome of Italian elegance and where a young Federico Fellini would sneak in to people watch, gaining inspiration for his iconic films – until he was inevitably thrown out. For Fellini, “The Grand Hotel was the fable of wealth, luxury and oriental splendour.”
Sant’Agata Feltria, Rimini: Truffles
The National White Truffle Fair takes place every Sunday during October in the enchanting medieval village of Sant’Agata Feltria. Truffles are serious business here and over a third of the population sign up for the compulsory licence required to hunt them.
Sauro Podasta has nearly 40 years’ experience as a truffle “researcher”. His mother was the area’s first female truffle hunter and now, he says, “I’m teaching my young daughter to go truffle hunting. This is not a job, it’s something you do because you’re passionate and you love your land.”
The abundance of truffles in the forests ensures that this ordinarily extravagant delicacy keeps truffles egalitarian, which isn’t always the case in other regions of Italy. Spending just €10 (£8.59) at the market provides enough truffle to shave over several bowls of pasta. Other stalls sell a wide range of truffle-based products, such as oils, polenta, pasta and cheese.
After inhaling the heady fumes of fresh funghi scenting the village, the appetite is overwhelmingly whetted, so head across the piazza to Il Tulipano Nero. Many come for the signature dish, Tortellacci del Tulipano, homemade pasta filled with meat and truffle, served with a mascarpone, sausage and truffle white sauce; or, for a lighter bite, the classic sunny-side-up egg with truffle. Owner Davide Bartolini attributes the restaurant’s success to, “the knowledge of our territory and its delicious products. What we want to share with our clients is our traditions mixed with creativity and innovation.”
On paper, the world’s largest food theme park spread across 25 acres sounds like it could be the absolute antithesis to artisan artistry but at FICO Eataly – despite an initial outcry from the naysayers – they’ve managed to pull off what could be a hellish foodie Disneyland.
Selling produce from all over Italy, including gelato, chocolate, bread and olive oil, with outposts of Michelin-starred restaurants, it regularly hosts talks and demonstrations.
Sure, it’s lacking in the charm of a family-run deli, but located close to Bologna airport, it’s worth a pitstop to pick up some Italian gourmet classics. Plus, it’s a blast whizzing around on a trike, whistling The Godfather theme tune, while squeezing a succulent orange.
Travel essentials
Getting there
Trying to fly less?
Take the Eurostar to Paris and change for a train to Turin or Milan. From there, direct trains run to Modena and Bologna.
Fine with flying?
Ryanair and British Airways operate direct flights from the UK to Bologna.
More information
For further information on the region of Emilia Romagna, visit emiliaromagnaturismo.it/en.
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