Diving with great whites on an expedition with Australia’s ‘shark whisperer’
Rodney Fox had to face his fears after a traumatic early encounter with this apex predator of the deep. Now he’s helping tourists and wildlife lovers do the same. Justin Meneguzzi reports
Being submerged inside a shark-diving cage feels a lot like being stuffed into a washing machine. The churn of the ocean hurls the steel cage against the hull of the ship it’s been dropped from, creating a repetitive, sonorous boom. It’s matched by the pounding of my heart and a roar of air bubbles as I briefly flounder, trying to right myself.
I get my footing just in time to spot the great white shark as it emerges – slowly, silently – from the blue, headed straight for me. Hollywood has taught me that this is the moment when we swim frantically away, but I find myself rooted in place by a mixture of exhilaration and fear, gripping the bars as the apex predator approaches. At the last moment she turns, her dark blue eye regarding me with indifference.
The rugged Neptune Islands are a pair of remote specks cut adrift near the entrance of Spencer Gulf in South Australia. The islands themselves are bare, home only to a long-abandoned lighthouse, but they’re a world-renowned hotspot for great whites (also known simply as ‘white sharks’). This area is a regular pit stop for the species, lured by Australia’s largest colony of long-nosed fur seals, which inhabit these islands’ craggy coves.
Realising that the only way to conquer his fear of the deep was to shine a light on it, Fox set about learning as much as possible about great whites
To get here, I’ve joined a small band of divers, underwater photographers and thrill seekers aboard a three-night voyage from Port Lincoln with Rodney Fox Expeditions. And this is far from a lurid, voyeuristic monster hunt. Conversely, the company’s mission is to turn fear into fascination – transforming travellers into shark advocates through close encounters like mine. It’s a mission that’s close to the Fox family’s heart.
Filmmaker and conservationist Rodney Fox was just 23 years old when he survived a ferocious attack by a great white during a spearfishing competition. He was lifted from the water barely clinging to life. Although he made a good recovery, the incident left him with deep physical and psychological scars. His love for the sea was undermined by the unshakeable dread of another shark attack.
Realising that the only way to conquer his fear of the deep was to shine a light on it, Fox set about observing great whites and learning as much as possible about them. He even constructed his own submersible cage so he could get closer to them. His invention turned out to be a game-changer, an invention that would allow documentary makers to film great whites underwater for the first time, as well as enabling scientists to study them safely.
“Right from the beginning, I was pulled along for the ride as I followed my Dad’s journey,” says Andrew Fox, Rodney’s son, who has since taken over operating the family business. Andrew has been hooked on great whites ever since his first encounter at seven years old, watching from his father’s boat as a curious shark visited them one night. He tells me that the image of the shark’s giant head protruding from the black sea, lit up by his father’s torch, is indelibly etched in his mind.
“Trying to understand the sharks is a privilege, and what makes them so magical is that we still can’t answer basic questions about them, like where they breed. That’s an incredibly fascinating journey to be a part of,” he says.
Today, Rodney Fox Expeditions has an ongoing partnership with researchers at Flinders University in Adelaide. It regularly subsidises its charters so that funding-strapped scientists can tag sharks, collect biopsy samples, or experiment with new shark-tracking technologies. Rodney is an outspoken advocate for shark conservation, while Andrew is an expert on great white ecology, sharing new insights into their behaviour picked up by the team. A keen underwater photographer, Andrew has also amassed a significant photo library, cataloguing over 1,000 individual sharks.
The dearth of tourists during the Covid-19 pandemic meant that the Foxs’ ship was regularly hosting crews of research scientists and documentary-makers. But as the world begins to return to normal, and Australia opens up to the wider world, travellers – myself included – are eager to see the country’s rare marine life again. And the good news is that you don’t need to be a certified diver to hang with these 10ft beasts.
The ship carries two submersible cages, which offer very different experiences. There’s the energetic surface cage, harnessed to the ship’s stern, where non-divers can watch sharks as they come to inspect the tuna chum and bait lines. A second cage is craned to the sea floor, where scuba divers can fully immerse themselves in the sharks’ world – seeing how calmly they interact with schools of kingfish, rays, and other great whites. Safety is paramount for every encounter, and the risk of losing a limb to these toothsome predators is virtually – yet never quite – zero.
There are substantial gaps in the diving cages to allow camera operators to get their footage. In his book, Sharkman, Rodney recounts an episode in which he was diving with three high-school children, and a juvenile great white got into the cage – he had to hold it back using his underwater camera until it swam away. All parties were fine, and the kids seemed to quite a kick out of it.
Everyone thinks the great whites are eternally hungry and want to bite people, but most of the time they’re clocked off and cruising around
“Everyone thinks the great whites are eternally hungry and want to bite people, but most of the time they’re clocked off and cruising around,” explains Andrew. “They’re not in any sort of mood to make every encounter a battle.”
The chance to observe great whites gliding free in their natural habitat does more for these animals than any documentary could. Despite having upwards of three 11ft sharks circling my small cage at one point, my initial tension quickly begins to ease. I start to see these creatures differently, admiring their grace and agility as they flit into view. Far from being faceless villains, each shark has its own personality, and the crew have even given them names. Coco Pops has a distinctive beauty spot, and IMax has a twisted spine caused by scoliosis, while Santa has a large tumour under his chin that resembles a jolly beard.
Back on board, we’re treated to nightly educational seminars about sharks, covering their vital role in marine ecosystems and how they’re increasingly threatened by commercial fishing, shark nets and climate change. The group even gets a pop quiz on the last night to see what we’ve learned. While great whites are protected and populations are thriving in some parts of the world, populations of other shark species have dramatically fallen by 70 per cent in the last 50 years. The loss of sharks would be an ecological disaster.
Andrew admits sharks have a major PR problem. Only a week before my visit, a British swimmer is fatally attacked by a great white just south of Sydney, making global headlines. On average, more people are killed by falling coconuts, bees and elephants each year than by sharks, yet we have a culturally persistent fear thanks to a whole genre of films that depict sharks as calculating psychopaths, such as Deep Blue Sea, The Shallows, and (dare I say) Sharknado. Rodney Fox even helped organise much of the real shark footage used in that godfather of shark films, Jaws, which he now regrets.
On average, more people are killed by falling coconuts, bees and elephants each year than by sharks, yet we have a culturally persistent fear
Andrew says we can prevent future shark attacks by refining new deterrent technologies, some of which are being tested and trialled on the family’s expeditions, as well as by gaining a better understanding of how these animals move through their ecosystem.
For now, his mission is simply to show travellers the real beauty of white sharks, one dive at a time.
“Just about everyone who comes on the boat is looking for a monster, but they tend to come away with a different perspective,” he tells me. “They’re awed at their power and come to give them respect. We want people to understand the animal and feel moved to protect them.”
Travel essentials
Getting there
Rodney Fox Expeditions depart from Port Lincoln, South Australia. Direct flights from London to Adelaide are available with many airlines, including Qantas, from £1,199 return. Port Lincoln is a 50-minute flight from Adelaide with Rex or Qantas, from £150pp.
Check the UK government’s foreign travel advice for the most up-to-date information on travel to Australia.
Staying there
The Port Lincoln Hotel is a four-star resort at the edge of the city’s glittering foreshore, making it an easy walk to the shops, restaurants and cafes on Tasman Terrace. The hotel itself features a gym, swimming pool, casual bar and restaurant. Rooms from £75, sleeping two to three adults.
Visiting there
Rodney Fox Expeditions specialises in live-aboard shark-diving experiences, with a variety of itineraries spanning between two and eight nights. Guests have multiple opportunities to dive with the sharks each day, with some itineraries including additional experiences, such as swimming with sea lions or island walks. All meals and most snacks are included, with alcohol available for purchase. Tours depart all year round, with two nights sharing a twin cabin starting from £804pp.
Justin Meneguzzi travelled as a guest of Tourism Australia and the South Australian Tourism Commission
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