I’m hitting the open road in northern Spain – any tips?
Simon Calder answers your questions on Bilbao and beyond, Gibraltar, and car hire hassle
Q I am going to Bilbao in June to spend 10 days driving the northern coast of Spain. Any recommendations or places not to miss along the way?
Coopon via the latest Ask Me Anything at independent.co.uk/travel
A What a fabulous trip. Initially, leave the car out of the picture as you enjoy the glories of Bilbao. The Guggenheim is gorgeous from the outside (resembling a deconstructed jumbo jet) and its riverside location is worth appreciating from different dimensions. If you are short of time, don’t bother with the inside and instead wander through the picturesque Old Town.
Next, treat yourself to the narrow-gauge train through the hills from stunning Abando station in Bilbao to San Sebastian – one of the most magical cities in Spain. The shell-shaped beach is framed beautifully by headlands. The one to the east shelters another magnificent Old Town and the best pintxos (the Basque take on tapas) in the region.
Return to Bilbao to pick up the car in about an hour by bus. Then head west along the coast, building in plenty of time in Santander – another great city. Europe’s great outdoors are seldom more impressive than in the region of Asturias, where peaks soar to 2,000m and bears, wolves and eagles still roam. Stay for a night or two in one of the mountain villages.
Back on the coast, I adore A Coruna, a lively resort with a spectacular shoreline. A mile’s stroll from the centre along the seafront promenade of Paseo Maritimo takes you to the Torre de Hercules – a Roman-built lighthouse dating back to the first century.
Santiago de Compostela is the cultural highlight of northern Spain, with a splendid cathedral built on the site where the remains of St James the Apostle were said to be discovered in the ninth century. If time permits, make your way to Finistera, which the Romans regarded as the end of the world. From Spain’s Land’s End, go north to the pretty fishing port of Muxia or south to the ruggedly located port of Vigo down by the Portuguese frontier. In between, the scenery is never short of spectacular.
Q I have booked a trip for three days in Gibraltar in March. Is there enough to see and do or would it be worthwhile taking a day trip to Tangier from Algeciras?
Robster
A Gibraltar has been transformed over the decades from a slightly rundown sort of place to one of the most diverse and spectacular locations in the Mediterranean. I have spent a week there on a family holiday in 2021 and was not tempted to stray any further (which was just as well; it was during the Covid era and stepping across the frontier into Spain was forbidden without going into quarantine on the return to the UK).
With a vertiginous rock at its heart, Gibraltar has some remarkable sights. The “Thrill Seekers Trail” is one of the world’s greatest urban hikes. It straddles the Rock, combining ancient paths and centuries-old military tracks embellished with 21st-century structures that provide high-altitude thrills and vertical views. At the top, there’s a glass-bottomed viewing platform: the Skywalk. Lower down, the Windsor Suspension Bridge is strung out above a 50m gorge between two military batteries, and is particularly thrilling on a windy day.
Gibraltar’s strategic position between Europe and Africa has made it significant for tens of thousands of years: traces of Neanderthal man have been found in caves on the eastern side of the Rock. The limestone promontory itself is riddled with tunnels created for military purposes but now turned into intriguing tourist attractions. The range of places to eat and drink has never been wider, with the waterfront now properly used as a lovely location to drink and dine.
For a day trip, the furthest I suggest you go is out into the Strait to watch the whales and dolphins frolicking – though you might also want to wander across the Spanish border to the town of La Linea for some tapas before your flight home (the main square is a 10-minute walk from the airport). In the unlikely event that you run out of activities, Algeciras itself is well worth exploration – no need to venture to Africa.
Q I booked car hire via my airline for a trip to Lanzarote. I still use the original UK paper driving licence, which I am entitled to do until I am required to change at age 70. But on arrival the rental firm refused to give me the car because I didn’t have a photo driving licence. The airline also refuses a refund.
Charlie
A How infuriating. You are, as you will appreciate, in a small minority by having a paper driving licence with no photo. These were issued many years ago with an expiry date on the eve of the holder’s 70th birthday and can be happily used within the UK (assuming nothing changes, such as moving house). Then the 21st century arrived and photo cards became the norm. The AA warns that holders of paper licences “might need an international driving permit” in some European countries.
You can also be pretty sure that buried somewhere in the terms and conditions of the car rental firm will be a requirement for drivers to have a licence with a photo on it. I have fallen foul of the tangle of rules by not taking my passport to pick up the car (resulting in a frustrating return trip the following day); I have even seen foreign visitors to the UK turned away because they could not produce the credit card they booked with.
What about the airline’s position? After all, you booked through it in good faith. Well, it will no doubt say its car rental offer is supplied by an intermediary, which has its own conditions. Because of the scope for things to go wrong when hiring a vehicle, I prefer to book direct with a big car rental company – who will, in my experience, make clear what is expected from the renter. Finally, you might want to change your licence for future rentals abroad. It will cost £20.
Question via the latest Ask Me Anything at independent.co.uk/travel
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