Can I travel to China by rail without passing through Russia?

Simon Calder answers your questions on marathon rail journeys, cruise controls and scuba diving in the sun

Travel via Baku, home to the Juma mosque, in Azerbaijan (Simon Calder)

Q Is it possible to get from the UK to China by rail without going through Russia or other impassable lands?

Name supplied

A In normal times, the obvious way to reach Beijing (and from there, most other parts of China) overland is to take the Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow via Novosibirsk to Irkutsk and Ulan Ude in eastern Siberia. Here, the Trans-Mongolian line leads south to Ulan Bator and Beijing – where it arrives about six days after leaving the Russian capital.

Given the current Foreign Office travel advice warning against all travel to Russia, and many travellers’ revulsion at the Kremlin’s invasion of Ukraine, that option is off the agenda for an indeterminate length of time.

There is a southern route via Kazakhstan to Urumqi in China, but this also requires crossing part of Russia. I sought the advice of Mark Smith, the international rail guru known as The Man in Seat 61, who told me: “The southern route through Turkey means going through Iran – which for Brits is possible only with an organised tour, even if that’s an expensive ‘private’ one.

“Even if the Iran visa problem was dealt with, I’m not sure how disjointed transport is over the Iran/Turkmenistan border.”

However, his website (seat61.com) shows that it should be possible to make the journey via Azerbaijan if you are not a complete rail purist and don’t mind taking some buses to cover the gaps between Turkey and Georgia.

From Tbilisi, the capital of the latter, you can take the train to the Azeri capital, Baku. With luck you can find (a) a ferry or cargo ship across the Caspian Sea and (b) a Turkmenistan visa. If both work, says Mark: “Once in Turkmenistan there are trains across the ‘stans to Almaty then Urumqi, Xian, Beijing.

“Such a shame you can’t just book passage on a weekly liner from Tilbury via Suez,” he laments.

Journeys that take in more than two or three countries are not plain sailing (Getty)

Q I’ve not heard much about the cruise industry recently and I wondered if the abolition of masks on board and getting off a ship at a port of call without an organised tour are now possibilities?

David G

A Cruise continues to be the problem child of the tourism industry. The Department for Transport (DfT) says: “Although operators have taken steps to improve infection control, cruise ships continue to experience Covid-19 outbreaks, affecting passengers and seafarers.

“The confined setting on board and combination of multiple households enables Covid-19 to spread faster than it is able to elsewhere. Cruises with confirmed or suspected Covid-19 cases have previously been denied permission to dock or to disembark passengers. This can have serious implications for passengers and seafarers on board. You should check the protocols of the cruise operator to ensure you are comfortable with safety measures.”

In terms of those safety measures, many cruise lines are now allowing independent excursions at ports of call, rather than signing up for expensive and confined ship-run outings. Local rules may still prevent passengers from wandering off wherever they wish. The Dominica government, for example, says: “Only passengers that have pre-sold or organised tours will be able to go beyond the health checkpoint.”

I am not recommending any cruises that take in more than two or three countries: the higher the number of nations involved, the more the risk of some kind of misfortune affecting the voyage. A trip around the Greek islands, or the coast and isles of Italy, would be fine – except that in both those cases, there are inexpensive and fun alternatives, notably ferries (and, for Italian journeys on the mainland) trains. I have taken only one cruise since they were allowed from UK ports again, and the mask-wearing was slightly annoying but bearable.

Egypt’s Sinai peninsula is perfect for scuba diving and soaking up the sun (Getty/iStockphoto)

Q I would like to go on a solo holiday to the sun for a few weeks starting on Monday 28 March. Ideally it would include some activities and fitness and some down time. I was looking at Sri Lanka and Thailand but both seem to be pretty expensive flight-wise at the moment. Where would you recommend?

Activities I like include scuba, free diving, open-water swimming and hiking. I like direct flights and minimum hassle.

Diana London

A I applaud your last-minute approach to your next trip, but I wonder if I can steer you away from Asia? Thailand’s policies have been confusing, frequently changing and incoherent.

Sri Lanka is more straightforward for fully vaccinated travellers: they are allowed in without testing, though Covid-19 travel insurance is mandatory for all visitors (either the official scheme, costing $12 for the month, or a travel insurance policy that specifically covers claims arising from coronavirus).

But in the southwest of the island, which is the most appealing part, April is the prelude to the monsoon season. In addition, as you say, fares are extremely high: upwards of £1,200 return for nonstop flights from Heathrow to Colombo, and around £1,000 even for one-stop flights. I am waiting for Wizz Air to start its no-frills flights from Abu Dhabi to Sri Lanka in June.

Meanwhile, can I suggest Egypt? There are no restrictions for fully vaccinated arrivals. On the Sinai peninsula you can expect great weather, with plenty of diving and snorkelling. Hiking is tricky, but you could always head along the coast to Eilat in Israel and tackle a stretch of the Trans-Israel Trail.

I’ve checked a price at a top all-inclusive resort, Tui’s Sensatori Coral Sea, and flying out from East Midlands on 28 March is expensive: £2,826 for a fortnight. But if you get a specialist to put together a bespoke trip for you, with more modest accommodation and a range of activities, it should be a lot cheaper and possibly more rewarding.

Email your question to s@hols.tv or tweet @simoncalder