How to make spice-rubbed lamb steaks with poached and roasted quince

For a beautifully different take on the fruit, Julia Platt Leonard combines aromatic quince with warming north African spices

(All photos Julia Platt Leonard)

At first glance, a quince looks like a slightly knobbly, fuzz-covered pear. Yes, they’re related (pears, apples and quinces are members of the rosaceae family), but most quince varieties are too hard and tart to eat raw.

But slice them and poach them and they’re almost perfumed.

When cooked, they turn from creamy white to anything from a soft, golden pink to a dramatic, deep red.

Their high pectin content makes them ideal for jam-making or the classic membrillo – a quince paste, often eaten with cheese.

In this recipe, lamb steaks are rubbed with ras el hanout – a north African spice blend. The quince is poached with ginger, cinnamon and cardamom – classic ras el hanout spices.

A spoonful of honey gently sweetens the poaching liquid and a short blast of high heat caramelises the slices. You can make the quince the day before and reheat before serving and any leftovers are perfect eaten with a dollop of Greek yoghurt or a bowl of granola.

Spice-rubbed lamb steaks with poached and roasted quince

Serves 2-3

450g lamb steaks
1 tbsp ras el hanout​
Olive oil
1 quince
Small knob of ginger, about 15g​
½ cinnamon stick
Long strip of lemon peel
3 cardamom pods
1 tbsp runny honey
Sea salt

Preheat oven to 220C.

Mix the ras el hanout and 1 teaspoon of salt and rub over the lamb steaks. Do this at least half an hour but preferably several hours before cooking.

Slice the quince in half and then into quarters. Remove the core. Slice each quarter into 3 or 4 thin wedges. Place the sliced quince into a medium-sized saucepan. Slice the ginger and add it along with the cinnamon, lemon peel, cardamom and honey. Pour water until it just covers the quince.

Bring to a simmer and cook until a knife can be easily inserted into the quince – about 25-30 minutes. Remove the quince slices and place on a non-stick baking sheet. Brush both sides of each slice with olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and place in the oven. Cook for about 5-10 minutes then turn and cook for another 5-10 minutes. The slices should be nicely browned.

Reduce the remaining cooking liquid until it’s slightly syrupy.

Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat. Brush lightly with olive oil and then add the lamb steaks, cooking a few minutes on each side. To serve, place some of the roasted quince on top of the lamb and drizzle with the reduced poaching juices.

@juliapleonard