‘I think a better word for “clean” beauty is “thoughtful” beauty’

ILIA’s Sasha Plavsic talks to Adele Cardani about skincare buzzwords, low-effort sun protection and her company’s pioneering hero product

‘I was trying to do my full skincare routine with my newborn daughter, thinking, I have to find a way to make this simpler’ (Ed Pulella Photography)

Fresh-faced, no make-up make-up is here to stay. And with that, it’s easy to succumb to the allure of products that promise an enviably dewy, glass-like radiance as if you’re always ingesting leafy greens and are so hydrated that your complexion is entirely unfazed by the effects of central heating. Many impulse purchases and an overfilled shelf (or two) of half-used meh makeup and stale skincare later, an aesthetician shared the ultimate pearl of wisdom with me: “That elusive glowing complexion we’re all searching for comes primarily from a healthy skin barrier, maintained by practising consistent sun protection.”

After all, applying an SPF 365 days a year, not just when it’s balmy and bright out, is considered a cardinal rule of beauty – one that we too often still skip. I don’t blame you for cringing at the thought of slathering the goopy, mineral-y Hawaiian Tropic-esque iterations from your childhood onto your precious face. Cue the dreaded pilling under your makeup and white specks caught in your eyebrows. This is something that propelled skin-centric make-up pioneer and founder of ILIA Beauty, Sasha Plavsic, when she created her award-winning hero product: the Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 30 (now available at Sephora, which has just landed in the UK). The zinc-based sunscreen, hydrating serum, and sheer foundation rolled into one lightweight, hybrid formula has me proclaiming: “This is the least sunscreen-y sun protection I’ve ever used!” So this week, I spoke with Plavsic, whose innovation – which is beloved by celebrities from Miranda Kerr and Gwyneth Paltrow to Pamela Anderson and Riley Keough – might just convince you of daily SPF use in time for summer.

Sun protection with no white cast? Yes please (ILIA)

ILIA’s story commenced when Plavsic dramatically broke off her engagement, walked out of her branding executive job, and moved back home to live with her parents in Vancouver. Soon after, her mum promptly got on her case about her long-term skin struggles, encouraging her to pay attention to what exactly was in the beauty products she used daily. Plavsic tells me: “I’d suffered from acne and hypersensitivity for decades, and I was always trying to figure out what was causing it. When I finally started reading all the ingredients in my make-up, I began questioning whether they were safe for my skin.” Thus, Plavsic founded ILIA, where her aim became (and continues to be) to blur the line between make-up and skincare by blending the safest of organic and synthetic ingredients, ultimately creating products that aren’t just pretty pigment – but that actually improve skin.

Plavsic tells me: “Our Super Serum Skin Tint (SSST) was inspired by the mornings when I was trying to do my full skincare routine, along with SPF and make-up, while my newborn daughter was in a baby bouncer, crying next to me in the bathroom. I remember thinking, ‘I have to find a way to make this simpler.’” She continues: “Raising kids and running my own business, I didn’t have time for the detailed, multi-step routine that the beauty industry encouraged. It was no longer just about improving skin, but about improving lifestyle too. I wanted something you can apply in minutes, while stuck in traffic, in the back of a taxi or quickly before running out the door.”

Plavsic: Clean beauty is not inherently natural (Ed Pulella Photography)

For the SSST’s pioneering dewy formula (which comes in 30 different shades), Plavsic chose plant-based squalane – the most hydrating and non-comedogenic emollient on the market, which works hard to restore suppleness. Niacinamide, known to treat breakouts and congestion, was selected to promote smooth, even-looking skin. And two molecule sizes (which each penetrate different skin layers) of hyaluronic acid were added to boost hydration, helping to soften the look of fine lines. Then, she tackled sun protection.

“The SPF formula was the hardest part of making this product, as often, non-nano zinc oxide – which is the best, most protective type of sunscreen to use – has a silicone coating on the pigment. The result of this is something I call ‘ghosting’, known as the dreaded white cast or chalky residue seen when sunscreen is first applied. This is particularly frustrating for those with darker skin tones,” explains Plavsic. “I was told it was impossible, but after two years of development, we figured out how to shield skin from the sun’s harmful rays, as well as blue light and pollution, without compromising on tint colour or inclusivity.” The end result is easy breezy, minimalist make-up that is clinically proven to actively protect your skin, giving you that “I drank enough water today” type of radiance.

Super Serum Skin Tint comes in 30 different shades (ILIA)

I ask Plavsic about beauty’s buzzword of the moment – “clean” – since ILIA identifies as such. She tells me: “It’s important to note that in beauty, not every natural ingredient is good for the skin, nor is every synthetic bad. It usually takes a combination of both to create a truly outstanding product.” She continues: “Many are pushing against the phrase ‘clean beauty’ right now because they think it should mean completely natural. But clean beauty is not inherently natural. To me, clean beauty is where the best of conscious, carefully selected plant-derived ingredients and safe synthetics collide, coming together in a very thoughtful way.”

Plavsic concludes: “I think a better word for ‘clean’ beauty is ‘thoughtful’ beauty. And that doesn’t just mean thoughtful ingredients that won’t harm the user, it’s also about bigger environmental and ethical considerations. It’s about how you show up responsibly as a company in the world.” For example, ILIA is cultivating a cleaner future with every Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 30 bottle by dedicating 1 per cent of all sales to fight deforestation – one of the greatest threats to our planet today. Plavsic’s goal: to continue improving and protecting skin, and to plant one million trees by the end of 2023 in partnership with 1% for the Planet and One Tree Planted.