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Is the new Smeg MOE34CXIUK combination microwave oven worth the near £400 price tag?

We cooked, reheated, grilled and defrosted all types of food to see if this is a model you can rely on to get the job done

Siobhan Grogan
Sunday 27 June 2021 06:00 BST
You don’t need to spend a fortune on a microwave – but is it worth it if you choose to?
You don’t need to spend a fortune on a microwave – but is it worth it if you choose to? (The Independent)

Choose the right microwave and it could become your most-relied on kitchen appliance. The best (and most expensive) models can grill toast, roast a chicken and even deliver perfect oven chips for an all-in-one cooking solution you’ll wonder how you ever lived without.

This Smeg MOE34CXI Combination Microwave Oven promises to do all this and more thanks to its inverter technology, huge capacity and built-in oven. However in the past, combination microwaves – a convection oven within a microwave – tended to be a pricey mistake.

The exposed oven heating elements proved extremely difficult to keep clean, producing smoke when the microwave setting was used on its own.

We installed this combi microwave in our kitchen to see if it could do any better. We tested all the features on the appliance and heated, roasted, defrosted and grilled a range of foods to see if this hi-tech machine could handle everything we threw at it.

Would it really prove a useful alternative to our oven, or is it just a costly way to warm baked beans? Here’s our honest verdict.

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Smeg MOE34CXIUK combination microwave oven

Smeg MOE34CXI.jpg

Buy now £389, Smeguk.com

  • Power: 1100W
  • Dimensions: 51.9 x 50.7 x 31.4cm
  • Capacity: 34 litres
  • Convection oven/grill: Yes/yes

Design

Smeg’s first-ever freestanding microwave is every bit as swish as you’d expect from this style-conscious company. Its strokeable stainless-steel finish and oversized black glass panel make a real statement in the kitchen and its futuristic look would work well with any modern décor. There’s a simple pull handle to operate the door which we prefer to the often-clunky push-button style many microwaves use, plus there’s a handy child lock in case it’s within reach of curious fingers.

The control panel is pleasingly minimal with a large digital screen and easy-to-operate touch controls, a dial for scrolling between cooking times, weight and pre-set menus and smooth, clearly labelled buttons to switch functions. Smeg claims these all have a fingerprint-resistant finish but we found it did mark a little during use, though this was easily swiped away with a microfibre duster.  It’s easy to clean inside with a wet cloth too.

Be warned this is not an average-sized microwave that will squeeze onto a cramped worktop though. The substantial footprint would take up far too much room in smaller kitchens, so it’s worth measuring carefully before deciding to buy.

Performance

This microwave is likely to be far more powerful than any you’ve used in the past so you must slash cooking time accordingly. We were amazed at how speedy it was at heating up ready meals and leftovers thanks to its whopping 1100W of power. It was also necessary to adjust cooking instructions on most ready meals to avoid over-heating which took a little getting used to, but is easy once you’re in the habit.

Cooking results were top-notch thanks to the advanced inverter technology. This delivers continuous and even microwave emissions for precision cooking even at lower temperatures. Smeg says this makes the microwave 30 per cent quicker than a standard one and we certainly noticed it was far faster than a non-inverter model. Results seemed to taste better too, as inverter cooking preserves taste, nutrients and vitamins to avoid over-cooked food with cold spots in the middle. Plus, it makes it considerably quieter than the average microwave so you don’t have to shout over it in the kitchen.

Inverter technology also made defrosting far superior to other microwaves we’ve tested. Even mince defrosted evenly without starting to brown or leaving frozen spots in the middle as is often the case, while slices of bread were thawed just enough so they didn’t start getting soggy.

There’s not much else this microwave can’t do thanks to a giant 34-litre capacity, roomy 31.5cm turntable and decent oven. We loved the fact microwave and oven cooking can be combined to speed up dishes usually cooked in the oven such as lasagne or roast chicken, which would be a real bonus on a busy weeknight – although we would’ve preferred a crispier top on our lasagne. We didn’t expect to be impressed by a batch of cupcakes we attempted in the microwave but they rose well and tasted great, if looking a little paler than ones cooked in the oven. Be aware that though the oven pre-heats quickly, it only reaches 200°C so you wouldn’t be able to use it for anything that requires very high temperatures. It’s also quite hard to see through the door when cooking and we found ourselves keeping an eye on progress by sneaking a peek inside.

Read more: Does the Russell Hobbs Scandi manual microwave deserve a space in your kitchen?

Don’t lose the instruction manual either. There are ten automatic programmes and a massive 40 pre-set recipes but we found it quite baffling to work out what they were and had to study the manual. It’s worth having a good look through, as some functions were really useful when we got to grips with them. We especially liked the melted chocolate and soften butter setting when baking, the keep warm capability and the stew functions for slow cooking.

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The verdict: Smeg MOE34CXIUK 34 litre combination microwave oven

This great looking machine may take up a lot of room, but it’s certainly not wasted space. It can’t be faulted on microwave cooking or defrosting and we were really impressed by its oven capability. Though we’re not quite ready to give up our main oven completely, this would be ideal for those times you need a little extra oven space. A thumbs up all round.

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