The Berry Bros selection is an excellent and well-priced all-rounder, a crisp, refreshing glass for an early summer lunch. It’s recommended as the perfect accompaniment to salmon, and we found it was an excellent fit, but it would go equally well with a roast chicken, or on its own.

Forrest, in Marlborough, were the first New Zealand growers to plant albarino, where the varietal took naturally to the rich clay soils. This is sweet on the nose and at the front of the mouth, with a delightful mango finish. Ideal if you’re looking for something a bit different, or a reason to talk about how the Kiwi climate is remarkably similar to certain parts of Spain.

Just outside of Porto in northern Portugal, Casal de Ventoleza offers fine viticultural conditions. The Ferreira Cortinhas family have been making wine there since the Seventies, but only branched out into alvarinho in 2012. This is surprisingly full-bodied, with a richness from being aged oak barrels, yet still crisp and refreshing.

Alberto Nanclares left a career in economics to set up his low-intervention winery in Cambados, Galicia. The result is an aromatic wine with a delightfully long finish and plenty of tropical fruit in the nose. Wonderful value.

A fantastic value option from Waitrose’ Blueprint range. This has all the freshness you expect, with plenty of fruit and acidity. Just the thing to lift a picnic or have on standby for everyday drinking.

Rias Baixas is the most prestigious albarino area in Spain. These are not the hot, dusty plains you normally associate with Spain, but a climate more like England or Wales. Fefinanes is one of the oldest producers, having first bottled it in 1928. Its flagship wine lives up to their reputation: a soft, peachy wine with plenty of zest.

From the coldest, wettest sub-region of Galicia, Val do Salnes, where the climate is truly “Atlantic”, Zarate mixes some crisp pear in with the traditional citrus fruits. Fruity, refreshing, and exceedingly drinkable.

Majestic customers named this as their favourite wine of 2019, and it’s easy to see why. It’s a Rias Baixas classic, that sings with peaches, citrus zest and blossom. On a sunny afternoon, it will slip down.

Lime and green apple are the strongest fruit notes in this good value supermarket albarino from Rias Baixas. A crisp, dry accompaniment to a fish supper.