“I like the idea of scents but not that of a fragrance,” Issey Miyake once quoted. “I do not possess the culture of fragrance, but rather the culture of scents.”

The late designer’s approach to fragrance definitely served him well. It’s been over 30 years since the launch of the iconic l’eau d’Issey, and it still remains a perfume classic. Created to conjure the sense of a pure waterfall, it echoed the delicate refinement of Miyake’s Japanese culture and his ethereal catwalk creations.

Miyake’s clothes were designed to drape the skin in softness and in a way, his perfumes are no different – providing a subtlety and elegance that was a world away from the shoulder pad-wearing more is more spirit of the Eighties. And l’eau d’Issey,’s new successor a drop d’Issey is just as enigmatic – with an environmental twist.

A scent that combines delicate florals and musks, its star note is solar jasmine made from a synthetic blend designed to mimic the real thing. While some purists prefer their scents with natural ingredients, this isn’t always best for the environment – as aggressive farming of these ingredients can deplete natural resources and disrupt biodiversity.

So, perfumer Ane Ayo worked with a sustainable alternative in the form of “green chemistry”, which recreated the scent of jasmine but didn’t require the natural harvesting of the flower. Instead it’s been synthesised in the lab, without any toxic chemicals that would pollute the atmosphere or waterways. A reimagining of a designer classic for the 21st century – naturally we were very intrigued.

How we tested

We sprayed on a drop d’Issey for a week, liberally applying to our pulse points and hair, as well as doing the famous Hollywood method of spritzing a cloud in front of us and walking through it. We noted how the bouquet appeared when first sprayed on, how it warmed up on the skin and how it developed throughout the day. Did we love it, want to scrub it off or did our nose just tune it out like background noise? These are our thoughts…

Issey Miyake a drop d’Issey eau de parfum

Best: Tribute to l’eau d’Issey

Size: 30ml, 50ml or 90ml

Bouquet: Damask rose, orange flower, almond notes and lilac flower

The bouquet

Devotees of classic Issey Miyake fragrances – not least die-hard eau d’Issey fans – will not be disappointed with this offering. Like sipping a cup of milky earl grey tea, it opens with a soft whisper of damask rose sweetened with a little sustainably sourced orange flower set against a cosy backdrop of almond milk.

At its heart is a solar lilac note, created using sustainable synthetic ingredients to recreate a lilac flower scent without having to harvest it (and deplete natural resources in the process). But once the initial sweetness and charm evaporates, it dries down to seductive jasmine flower and spicy star anise notes, alongside a comfort blanket of vanilla and soft amber.

How it developed over time

Being a light and airy scent, this scent obviously doesn’t knock you for six when first applied – but it does stay faithfully put several hours later, drying down to a musky softness that might warrant a few top ups later on in the day.

The bottle

Designed to resemble a water drop, the bottle design almost eclipses the contents. A disc-like shape, it has a built-in atomiser and a fish eye indentation that has a magnifying effect. And unlike many clunky, awkward-shaped perfume bottles that stay firmly on the dressing table, this can fit neatly into a handbag (or medium-sized clutch) thanks to its slim design – ideal for those who like to spritz while out and about.

The bottle contains five per cent recycled glass (don’t hurt yourselves guys), and the outer box is made from 70 per cent recycled paper so it wins a few eco-brownie points here, too.

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The verdict: Issey Miyake a drop d’Issey

While our tester prefers their scents to be a little bigger and bolder, the Issey Miyake a drop d’Issey is ideal for those who prefer a lighter perfume that doesn’t “wear them” but still has some staying power. The bouquet doesn’t exactly scream unique and groundbreaking, but if you’re not trying to make a statement with your scent, this is a charming concoction that serves as a fitting modern incarnation of the legendary l’eau d’Issey. We liked the green chemistry aspect too and hope other brands follow suit.

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