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From bestsellers to the lesser-known, each scent from the indie fragrance house tells a story
There was a time when fragrance was more commonly divided into “for him” and “for her” labels. It was a dichotomy cooked up by marketing teams in the mid-20th century, but historically perfume has always been gender-neutral.
Thankfully, niche, unisex perfume lines are now beoming the norm once more. But among the first to pave the way was Byredo. In a world where many cherished fragrance houses have become more twee and girly to appease the younger market, this brand has always been proudly avant-garde and experimental.
Our tester remembers as a young beauty writer spending all their time in Liberty’s fragrance room, being mesmerised by those chubby round bottles with their dome-like stoppers, black and shiny as a beetle’s wings. Not to mention the oh-so-chic monochrome labels, emblazoned with quirky names like “1996”, the (sadly discontinued) “Fantastic Man” and “Pulp”.
Byredo presents perfume in a fun and intriguing new way, which is why it has amassed a veritable army of devotees over the years, including every beauty editor worth their salt, and a few A-Listers to boot.
Having an enigmatic founder who could easily pass for a male model doesn’t hurt either. Born to a Canadian father and Indian mother, Ben Gorham grew up living in Toronto, New York and Stockholm and memories of this peripatetic childhood influences the types of perfumes he creates. And these truly are the best ones to buy now.
When testing each fragrance, we’ve looked at how it develops on the skin, its originality and staying power, together with its wearability. Our selection includes the much-loved classics, together with the lesser-known gems and new launches. If you’re looking to invest in a new signature scent, read on.
This is one of the brand’s original creations and is a best-seller for good reason. Designed to evoke “the scent of fresh soil, deep crests and campfires”, this sublime woody scent has everything a good perfume should: a complex character that’s still so easy to love. With a rich base of sandalwood and pine needle, brightened by sparkling lemon and sweet vanilla, all these contrasting notes strike a delicate balance and complement each other so well. The result is a concoction that’s cheery yet addictive, arresting yet not overpowering. And perfect to wear all day – and night – long.
Given recent historical events, it’s quite fitting that this scent was created in a time of grief. De Los Santos pays homage to the traditions of Día de los Muertos and All Saints’ Day and aims to embody that mystical atmosphere of people congregating to pay their respects to lost loved ones. The scent itself is peculiar and intangible, much like mourning – with enveloping notes of clary sage, palo Santo incense and musks, but nothing too heavy or dramatic, much like the quiet yet nature of mourning a loved one.
Sometimes when you invest in a luxury scent, you want to smell every penny of it on your skin. This one works hard for its money, flaunting its fragrant wares and then some, so you’re in no doubt of its presence (but not in a suffocating way). The name is appropriate, bursting open like a parachute in a single spritz, engulfing the wearer in an intoxicating cloud of white floral tuberose, with seductive jasmine in hot pursuit. Inspired by the luscious blooms that adorn flower garlands exchanged by the bride and groom at Indian weddings, it would smell utterly gorgeous on a bride – or non-conforming groom.
Inspired by founder Ben Gorham’s travels to India, Mumbai noise pays tribute to the carnival of sights, sounds and smells of the streets of Chembur, which are evoked through hazy incense, bitter coffee and the herb Davana, whose smell is reminiscent of dried fruit. The “noise” is given a rich, nuzzle-worthy quality with the addition of warm woods and amber, which warm up beautifully on the skin as the initial hustle and bustle dies down. It’s bustling street carts, noisy conversations over coffee and just a pleasant-smelling din anyone would happily lose themselves in. Perfect for Indian ex-pats feeling nostalgic or just those looking for an olfactory escape.
Byredo’s first vanilla scent and the last in its “night veils” collection, the vanilla antique is part of a series of extraits de parfum and it’s one of the strongest concentrations there is, so it’s safe to say this packs a punch. The collection was designed to signal the start of the evening, and whether you’re heading off to a ritzy soiree or chilling on the sofa in your bunny slippers, this sweet and enveloping concoction will definitely lift the tone. The confectionary richness of vanilla is heightened with black plum, drying down to a soft whisper of cashmere woods and freesia.
If you like a scent with spicy undertones, this recent creation was designed to reflect “the tumultuous nature of our times”, echoing the chaos and upheaval of the last 12 months. A pleasant jumble of cassis, black tea and violet leaf, its intriguing and complex character envelops the skin like a hug – similar to bundling up in a new autumn blazer or curling up with a book while a storm rages outside. A strong scent that’s not afraid to show its sensitive side.
Every perfume paints a picture and this was actually inspired by one, which was taken by photographers Inez and Vinoodh in – you guessed it – 1996. Originally released as a “private edition” for a select group of fashion trendies, people loved it so much it was eventually released to the public, and we’re very glad they did. The resulting scent is a haze of contradictions, with a warm, enveloping base of amber, vanilla and subtle earthy patchouli, contrasted spiky top notes of juniper and black pepper. It definitely won’t be like anything you’ve smelled before – ideal for those looking for a scent that makes a statement.
As one of the most aphrodisiac notes in perfumery, patchouli is legendary, so it’s fitting that it’s been included in this whimsical blend. As the name suggests, slow dance is inspired by school discos and that exciting yet awkward time teenagers start to discover the world of courtship (without the accompanying whiff of 15-year-old boys drenched in Old Spice).
Masculine and feminine, it stars soft and smokey opopanax, echoing the scent of warm skin – together with earthy notes of the aforementioned patchouli, while sweet violet and vanilla evoke pink-lipgloss smiles revealing brace-covered teeth. One spritz will have you gently rocking side-to-side while Robbie Williams croons Angels in the background…
Another best-seller, if the name doesn’t intrigue you already, the bottle’s contents definitely will. Inspired by “the soulful beauty of the Mojave desert”, its enigmatic character encapsulates everything Byredo fans love about this perfume house. It announces itself in a soft whisper of sandalwood and amber, drying down to a powdery floral accord of violet and warm musk. This skin-caressing concoction is subtle enough for during the day while bringing enough glamour for the evening too. If you want a perfume that makes people stop and ask, “what are you wearing?” this one will do the trick.
This sparkling scent sings with citrus notes of mandarin and Californian lemon, which are prized for their mood-boosting effects. Its effervescent quality is anchored by white floral heart notes of neroli and Arabian jasmine, drying down to the sweetness of white musk – making for a romantic, sunny scent to remind you of happy summer days (even during the depths of winter). Although an ideal holiday perfume, its uplifting bouquet works well for pretty much any time of year.
If you’re just looking for something that “smells nice” then save your money and buy one of the many perfectly adequate scents on the high street. But for real perfume lovers looking for a scent that will stay put and tell a story, Byredo makes for a great investment. De los santos is our favourite for those after something a little different and enigmatic. But it has to be the best-selling, gypsy water which remains the front-runner for us – being complex and original enough to satisfy any seasoned scent wearer, but at the same time so dazzling and bewitchingly gorgeous that we defy anyone not to fall under its spell.
Looking for your signature scent? Read review of the best fragrances for women and perfumes for men